Overly moussed males, technophiles, and high-class hipsters collide in Mission District fave that’s won more awards than Meryl Streep. Art-house backdrop, seasonal Italian menu based on fresh market ingredients. Get any of the housemade pastas, grilled calamari with white bean salad, lemon-kissed sand dabs, and buttermilk panna cotta (sigh) for dessert. Multi-pierced yet professional staff unusually spunky and energetic. Counter seating for walk-in diners.

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