Four Seasons-style power luncher for the downtownish exec. Neo-classical Italian from now-departed Boulud protégé throws everything on the starched linen table, from tripe and miscellaneous lamb parts to chicken cacciatore and grandma’s ravioli recipe. Big, buzzy room with tall windows on ground floor of black office cube that sticks out among polished white manses of lower Madison. Duck meatballs. Everybody’s talking about them. For serious.