The long-anticipated opening of the much buzzed about Thompson hotel The Beekman took on sort of mythic proportions. The chatter around the plush new FiDi hotel ebbed and flowed as bits of information surfaced over the last two years. The people involved on the F&B side, Keith McNally and Tom Colicchio, certainly had much to do with that.
But at long last, the latter has just opened his rather Cotswolds-sounding Fowler & Wells (indeed, it sounds like an English hunting brand). The historic space is used to shamelessly opulent effect – those days of Craft minimalism are long behind, no? Still, this being the stomping grounds of so many Masters of the Universe, chef Bryan Hunt doesn’t try to get cute here (don’t come looking for deconstructed, gooseberry-infused foie gras). Rather, he does opulent takes on warm lobster salad, hamachi with sea urchin and matsutake, olive-oil poached halibut, and, of course, a dry-aged sirloin Madeira, as well as Oysters Rockefeller.
Expect a happening clientele, as Colicchio has a solidly a-list following. There’s a 75-seat bar for those just looking to scan the crowd over a Perfect Manhattan or two.
McNally’s Augustine will follow later in the year – which should make for a fascinating sort of high-profile food fight.