Despite any upscaling and intellectualizing to the contrary, tacos are supposed to be, you know…fun.
The fact that exactly that particular philosophy has been enthusiastically embraced in conceiving NYC’s luminous new Taco Electrico (at the W New York – Union Square hotel) is obviously apparent from the name alone. But the dayglo dynamism runs through every detail here, to be sure; and with its playfully incandescent neon detailing, and charmingly LED overload, the new Gerber Group contemporary taqueria is an aesthetic feast for the culturally sensitive senses.
But the food and drinks are prepared with equally stylistic flare – from the artistically abstract quesadillas to the stark, unmessy presentation of the guacamole, on to the glittery opulence of the Sangria For Two.
But Executive Chef Fernando Navas‘ menu doesn’t veer into splashy over-conceptualizing. Rather, it focuses on beautifully realized Mexican classics, from the cured salmon tostadas to the sweet corn fritters to, of course, some impressively creative tacos: pork belly, pickled red onion, salsa verde; cauliflower turmeric tahini, pumpkin seeds; carrots, labneh, sunflower seeds, turmeric.
Though, with another hot summer ahead, a visit to Taco Electrico for icy cold Hibiscus Paloma cocktails and their housemade paletas Mexican popsicles sounds absolutamente refrescante.