Hotel Chantelle

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Gritty, old-LES hulk conceals sophisticated cocktailing inspired by Paris between the wars. Rooftop restaurant tricked out with topiary, basement dance lounge with exclusive keyed entry, something like Gramercy Park. Menu covers French colonial faves from New Orleans to Quebec to Vietnam. Barkeeps mix up a mean Dakota: champagne and white peaches to recall Harry’s Bar circa 1943.