“Sunday Roast isn’t brunch, it’s anti-brunch,” says Chef and owner Angie Mar of her newest offering at the historic but still trendy and zeitgeisty Beatrice Inn.
No one leaves hungry, with a selection of bone in prime rib and full English breakfast, including house made cannellini beans and blood pudding. The deviled crab, fried rabbit and waffles, and pork lard scones, served with house made raspberry conserva, are all clever plays on the traditional/English.
Besides, she insists, “It doesn’t make sense to do what everyone else is doing.”
But diners arriving on the luxurious side of 12PM to 8PM can still sink their teeth into a 45-day dry-aged burger, grilled to perfection, smothered in red wine braised onions and d’Affinois cheese. You might be jealous of that brioche bun for soaking up the drippings but all is quickly forgiven.
The presentation? Antique silver plates, sourced by the chef herself on Portobello Road, hold food that is thoughtful and primal, delicate and messy, as all lazy Sunday meals with family and friends should be.
“At the end of the day the Beatrice should feel like your home,” the chef continues. “When you cook absolutely unapologetically and organically, when it’s laid out in that format, I think people are more prone to be excited and accepting. I don’t do brunch.”
Her one exception? Scotch eggs: perfectly soft-boiled and jammy, covered in lamb sausage and a crunchy coating, crisped to perfection.
Since the menu the changes seasonally, what will the coming months bring?
She reveals, “Spring and summer mean grilled meat, fruit, and herbs.”
With the Beatrice’s cozy leather banquets, parquet floors and plentiful of mood lighting, a leisurely Sunday Roast seems to slow down time itself. What better way to both start and fuel the week?
Angie Mar’s Recipe for Lamb Confit with Rhubarb Mostarda and Horseradish Gremolata
For Lamb Confit:
4 bone in lamb shanks, 1.5-2lb each
1c garlic cloves
1Tbsp rosemary leaves
¼ tsp kosher salt, plus more for seasoning lamb shanks
⅛ c olive oil
Canola oil to cover, about 8c
For Rhubarb Mostarda:
6 c sliced rhubarb
¼ c white wine
¼ c white wine vinegar
½ c sugar, or to taste depending on the ripeness of the rhubarb
¼ tsp salt, or to taste
5-7 cracks of black pepper
3 sprigs thyme
1½ Tbsp Dijon mustard
For Horseradish Gremolata:
3 Tbsp freshly grated horseradish
2 Tbsp each finely chopped parsley & mint
Zest of 2 lemons
Season the lamb shanks liberally with kosher salt. Let sit in the refrigerator while you make the garlic paste.
In a food processor, place the garlic cloves, rosemary, and ¼ teaspoon salt. While the food processor is running, slowly add oil to create a paste.
Coat each lamb shank in the garlic paste. At this point, at the restaurant, we let it marinate for 24 hours, just to make sure the flavor really gets in there. If you can’t wait, you could also cook the shanks that day and they’d still be lovely.
Preheat the oven to 250°. Place the the marinated shanks in a deep baking dish or casserole, so they fit snugly, and cover completely in canola oil. Cover with a lid or foil, and then place in oven. Cook until lamb is fragrant, soft, tender and almost falling off the bone, about 2.5-3 hours. Remove from oven and set aside until ready to serve.
Do ahead: you can confit the lamb and it can be stored, in the oil in the fridge for up to a week. Remove from oil and bring to room temperature before you sear off and serve.
Make the Mostarda:
Place rhubarb, wine, vinegar, and sugar in a sauce pot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and let simmer for 10-15 minutes, until the liquid reduces to just under syrup consistency.
Add pepper to taste.
Turn off the heat and stir in the Dijon mustard until dissolved. Set aside until ready to serve.
Tip: To preserve the rhubarb’s bright, beautiful color, transfer the mostarda to a bowl and place in refrigerator immediately. The mostarda can be reheated right before serving.
Make Horseradish Gremolata:
Mix grated horseradish, chopped parsley, and lemon zest well. Set aside until ready to serve.
Preheat oven to 350°. Remove lamb shank from oil, removing as much of the garlic paste as you can, it will help you obtain even browning.
Heat a pan with olive oil over medium high heat. Brown each lamb shank on all sides, making sure the color is a beautiful golden brown, and the meat is a little crispy. Place shanks in a casserole or baking sheet, and place in oven to heat completely through, about 8 minutes.
Transfer lamb shanks to a serving platter. Spoon warm rhubarb mostarda over each shank, and sprinkle with gremolata. I like to finish each plate with more freshly grated horseradish and a drizzle of good olive oil for sheen and richness.
At the Beatrice, we serve this on top of a beautiful stone ground polenta, however you could serve this with a side of delicious stuffing, or a stunning rice pilaf and it would be equally as delicious.