Young Hollywood still flocks to Richie Akiva’s wood-paneled homage to deforestation. Hallway tube leads to soaring main dining space, which resembles the inside of a just-popped roll of Pillsbury dough. Chef Alex Guarnaschelli serves up surprisingly hearty grub, with heavy meats and greenmarket veggies. Downstairs Birch Room lounge carries on tree theme. Models, promoters, and assorted trustafarians strike up desultory conversations about themselves.