Apologies for bringing you your LFW update a day late. The only excuse I can possibly make is it that yesterday was big. Seriously big. There was Berardi, Burberry, Pilotto, Ford, Kane, Erdem and Giles to name but a few. There was also Harry Styles causing a 1D fan scrum outside Burberry (seriously?), Kendall Jenner making small talk with Anna Wintour on the FROW (wouldn’t you love to have been a fly on the wall for that one?) and Cara videoing herself on her iPhone while walking for Giles. Eventful doesn’t even begin to cover it. So the only way I can possibly do justice to this most epic of days is to take you through it step-by-step, in two parts. Think of it as your cheat’s guide to LFW day 4. Are you ready for Part I? Let’s go.
First stop: Antonio Berardi. My God the man does sexy so well. Next season’s Berardi girl is the ever so slightly vampy but still stylish girl I always wish I was. You know, all kick-ass thigh high lace up leg-wear with structured long sleeved mini dresses without (somehow) looking remotely trashy. With a mostly monochrome colour palette the key print was an abstract black and white that was found on everything from an androgynous (but still sexy) coat to the paneled mini-dresses bordered with accents of emerald green. This emerald green was also used to great effect on strictly tailored trousers paired with a majestic purple cropped sleeve jacket, and of course the slightly S&M lace up heels. This is how to do sexy the grown up way.
Next up, Christopher Kane who’d abandoned the pretty pastels and ‘florabotanica’ theme of his SS collection for something altogether more dark and stormy with just a dash of sugar. The bedrock of this spirited collection was tough as nails black in high-shine plasticized-looking leather. Whether smooth and shiny on a cute A-line skirt, used to create futuristic ruffles on the hem of a dress or as the backdrop for a marabou trimmed coat these are the pieces that will show you’re a Kane girl next season. The dose of sweetness came from a peppermint green polo-neck adorned with bows, a powder pink sweater and a semi-sheer pink and black crochet effect dress– what’s key is they were all worn with the tougher black pieces. This is where naughty meets nice in the fashion world, and I bloody love it.
After all the vague S&M referencing of the morning came respite in the way of Roksanda Illincic. Traditional autumnal hues in red wine and camel mixed with clean lines and simple yet beautiful silhouettes where longer hemlines are key were typical of her bold but still somehow understated aesthetic. But it was the bold blues (yep, here they were again) found on an oversized coat, in a pretty floral print dress and a sports-luxe sweatshirt that really stood out for me. This cobalt was also joined by the babiest of blues, in a twisted and draped front skirt with exposed striped lining that felt truly original. Another one for the wish list then.
Then it was back to the darker side courtesy of Erdem as best described by two words: gothic romance. High ruffled necks, more body conscious than usual (though not tight) silhouettes, black lace dresses trimmed with black velvet and a black mock-croc mac all showcased the darker and slightly sexier mood of the label for next season. But die-hard Erdem-ites needn’t worry. The brand’s signature more boxy floral dresses were still to be found, this season in a burnished gold and blue and a burgundy and ice blue print.
So far, so good. But next up was Burberry which was about to knock it right outta’ the park. Aside from that boyband member, that model, and that Kardashian (I mean Jenner) as well as the other star-studded elements of the show, here was a collection that warrants attention in it’s own right. Forget the prim pencil skirts and pastels of season’s past. This was a move in a newer, fresher direction– folkloric in feel thanks to brush-stroke adorned sheepskin coats and a more floaty, fluid silhouette. This is how to do seventies-inspired without looking like you’re at a costume party. Beautiful Bloomsbury printed dresses falling to mid-calf gave a nod to the British art movement scene and formed the main thread of conversation through the collection. Beautiful yet unfussy, these are clothes than women the world over will be clamoring to wear. As is the Burberry way, it’s seasonal signature styling tweak (usually to do with a belt) was to use printed scarves held in place at the waist underneath belts. Simple, yet effective – and also incredibly smart offering up the no doubt (slightly) more affordable piece as a key entry-level buy for younger fashion fans the world over.
Phewwww. And that’s only half the day. I told you it was big. See you tomorrow same time, same place for the Part II.