The Fourth

American brasserie at the Hyatt Union Square. No problems starting conversations, as L.A. artist Brinton Jaecks hangs five bunk beds from the ceiling in a dreamlike helix. For appetizers, it’s bi-coastal oysters and beet and burrata salads. Main menu divides into pastas, fish, and “livestock.” Pink salt brick-roasted Amish Country chicken keeps its juices beneath a tasty skin, with watercress slaw on the side.

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