Chef Bill Telepan keeps it simple as his namesake UWSider, with a focus on greenmarket ideology over experimentation, in low-key stylish digs.The egg fettucine comes with NJ foraged milk cap mushrooms, heritage pork is done Toscano style…and the house smoked brook trout can be topped with Osetra caviar. Sommelier Samuel Clifton’s seasonal wine list is one of the city’s best.

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