Three styles of Italian pizza in a sizeable dining hall/White Stripes video set. Lacquered white and red walls and seating for 90 keep the energy up. Award-winning pizzaioli do Neapolitan, classic, and twice-baked dough; kitchen doubles as a pizza school. Twenty-five artful varieties, not a pick-your-toppings joint. Bufala refers to mozzarella, not Frank’s sauce. A proper Italian menu accompanies the pie list, and, as is the trend, the tiramisu features Stumptown grinds.

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