Sardines on Triscuits, fried sweetbreads, Dutch pancake, and bread with chocolate and olive oil (order it all) at Gabrielle Hamilton’s (2011 winner of the James Beard Best Chef award) quirky, cramped mainstay, packed since 1999. There’s a long wait at brunch, but it’s worth it, and each of the 11 Bloody Marys comes with a Red Sripe beer chaser. Mismatched silverware, wait staff in pink shirts to match the menus, but none of it matters when the food’s on the table.

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