Monkeyshines from Graydon Carter. Classic 1936 Deco spot in the Hotel Elysée trots out a third incarnation. Hierarchical supper club scene, with banquettes for the literary elite, tables in the pit for everyone else. Lush, with forgiving lighting. Dual murals to amuse when you’re tired of pretending not to be staring at Charlie Rose. Historically more about martinis than munchies, although new chef blood is flipping that script. Smoked fettuccine with caviar and uni, braised pork belly and oysters.