Inviting, warm, energetic, and still mostly packed. Mario Batali eats at sub-Babbo prices. Hard to say what’s best since it all rocks: ricotta gnocchi, prosciutto plates, crispy raisin duck, wood-oven red peppers, cacio e pepe spaghetti. Cheese for dessert, in addition to dessert for dessert. Reservations still essential, as it’s still Mario Batali, unless you hit it late, or are willing to sit at the bar or elbow-to-elbow at the common table up front.