Running on its reputation, but then that reputation is about as lofty as they come. Eric Ripert is more likely to be globetrotting than preparing the orange vinaigrette that tops your warm lobster carpaccio, but seasoned staff knows its way around the fruits of the sea. Tastings gently escalate from almost raw to barely touched to lightly cooked, with international shadings and flavors that really pop. Grand, glam space with wood-paneled ceilings and clean lines. Lush service to seal a special occasion. Gents, jackets, s’il vous plait.