Gangster-fabulous and maybe the city’s best Italian. You could walk by the gray-curtained storefront 1,000 times and never notice it. Once inside, however, there’s no missing that you’ve hit old school paydirt. Enthusiastic waiters expound on the menu in Italiano. Scampi oreganata, branzino al forno, scaloppine alla Romana. Good luck getting a reservation; if you do, dress like you can afford it—sneakers and jeans aren’t going to do it.