Gabe Stulman doffs his hat to the past while embracing a stylish Village present. Circa 1917 bar never looked glossier, stretching out opposite photo-decked dining space. Reservations for the big tables go fast day-of, otherwise it’s walk-ins, feasting on Montreal’s Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly’s eclectic cuisine. Tripe, tongue, and crispy pig’s head to test your bravery. Asian accents like tobiko, panko, and sriracha keep things from ever feeling, erm, old hat.

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