Fatty ‘Cue

Grownup version of equally obese Billyburg sis. (So grown up, it’s the first of the Fattys to serve dessert, showing off exotics like sherbet and menthol ice, or durian-chili-pineapple sorbet.) Zak P. sprinkles his magical Malaysian spices on smoked goat, lamb, brisket. Thumper never tasted better than as buttermilk-fried rabbit with shrimp paste marinade. Fancy cocktails, Thai-style bottle service. Sophisticated look courtesy of banquettes, exposed brick, flattering lights.

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