Compelling aromas from the open kitchen fill this small, dimly lit West Village trattoria, whose name means “of the soul.” Stellar all-Italian wine selection available at full bar in front, seats at chef’s table in back offer behind-the-scenes glimpse of Babbo and Del Posto expats at work. Fashionistas, foodies, Tom Colicchio swarm for scarce tables. Attention carbophobes: all pastas come in 50% portions. Be sure to order the fettuccine Bolognese—or half.

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