You half expect Indiana Jones to come charging through the plastic floral underbrush, chased by 100 Thuggee assassins. Cheap, plentiful Chinese mainstays can stand up to the distractions. House chicken a garlicky masterpiece, namesake congees hearty and flavorful. To accommodate the masses, a new location has cropped up at 207 Bowery. Get the 80-proof Mai Tai and sautéed frog. Seriously.