Cheese without airs from Brian Keyser, late of the Modern. Choose from just-made, soft-ripened, cooked and pressed, brine-washed, or moldy. Flights wing past the stanky, the creamy, and the blue. Small plates, too, try to keep it classy while asking for a pig’s ass sammie. Also great wine selection to accompany your cheese-gorging. Simple storefront space leans Restoration Hardware, with dark wood tables and bar, and a big old brick back wall.