Proenza Schouler was the star of the day. Easy, wide leg flat front pants flattered and hit short on the ankle, visually giving a hint of Japanese Hakama. Other pieces were printed with what looked like a mess of hair shown under a microscope, and standout metal tops read like chest plates – perfect for the urban warrior woman – wrapping and tying delicately across the back. The best pieces out of the show, sure to be on many a spring wish list, were the too-long-to-be-midi pleated skirts with inlay of silver and gold lamé. The collection moved beautifully, walked about by models stilted on high platform heels – not the only collection without a single-sole sighting this season.
Reed Krakoff was a surprisingly naked collection, given the sophistication with which it has shown in the past. What wasn’t see-through was inappropriately clingy – who knew camel-toe was possible in a dress? After a break from Coach, Krakoff could be exercising more creative freedom, and while the cuts were for the most part beautiful, it’s hard to see how the sheer sheerness will translate.
photo via @stevenkolb
Feminine, romantic, strong, and set to Dream a Little Dream of Me, this soft, languid, Michael Kors collection evoked a perfect summer, from swimwear (slightly pin-up) to effortless dresses and easy separates, and even fox fur for the chiller evenings. If given the choice to only shop one for spring, Michael Kors collection had everything you’d need. The ‘40s and ‘70s were influences in the cuts of the clothes, without ever veering on costume. ‘90s fluidity aided in the ease of the collection, and while the references were there, it couldn’t have been more modern.
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Main image via @michaelkors