Illustration: Hilton Dresden. Photos Courtesy of Dan and Corina Lecca.
Designers Patric DiCaprio, Bryn Taubensee, David Moses, and Claire Sully, more succinctly known as Vaquera, have again poked fun at stuffy fashion shows and pretentious ideas of class with their Spring 18 collection.
The show was presented in a boxing gym in lower Manhattan—models stomped down a runway that twisted around a roped stage reserved for competitions of physical strength and endurance. Upon each seat a poem was written:
“I’m trying to think, About who I am, and what I want!!!!!!” it begins. “But instead I’m stuck on when I didn’t think about much at all. When my main dilemma was whether my outfit would read as surf when all I wanted was to be punk!!!!!!!”
As always, the collection appeared to tackle the concept of identity expressed through fashion—in seasons past, we’ve seen elegant chefs, women swarthed in gauzy umbrellas, working class attire and over-the-top Americana. This season seems to take a more youthful approach, calling back to middle school couture with its Abercrombie-reminiscent ‘Vaquera’ logos emblazoned upon cropped tank tops and fringed tees. Board shorts, tropical florals, and license plate-themed textiles reigned supreme, further reinforcing the notion of eight grade mall kids-gone-high fashion.
The show still felt, as Vaquera always does, very American, or, at least, poking fun at clothing that would, in another context, signify extreme patriotism. There was a giant t-shirt with Abe Lincoln on it, accompanied by a large cowboy hat. The characters created in this show seem more innocent than those of runways past, with their ripped tees and wide cut trousers.
Moments that truly astounded us included the final look, a giant gown made out of bathrobe material, as well as a floral dress with a giant bow tied on its front. We were also partial to the phase of the collection using a yellow checkered fabric, which featured a ruffle-sleeved, high-low shirt fitted ingeniously upon its model. They also struck gold with a pinstripe trouser paired with a skintight floral turtleneck. Take a look at some of our favorites below.