This NYFW, I attended Katie Gallagher’s (above, center) Fall/Winter 2010 presentation entitled “The Heart of the Woods and What I Found There” at the Soho Grand hotel. The collection was one part gothic—reminiscent of the NY-based designer’s Spring 2010 debut line—and one part whimsical, introducing a softer color palette with delicate textures. “Back in September right after my launch collection showed, I began a landscape painting on a piece of wood I found outside. The painting was to help me develop the color palette that I was imagining for FW10,” says Katie. “It’s a drippy, wintry image filled with soft greys, whites, creams and hints of pink and green. Alongside this palette, I couldn’t leave half of the collection in anything other than black.” Her talent brought to life a world of ethereal figures with messy hair and pale skin, like those that would appear in the atmosphere of the landscape. Demonstrating the relationship of geometry and volume in her construction, Katie cloaked these figures in garments that explored new dimensions in layering. Standout pieces were the vertical leggings in Lycra, leather and silk, and the warp coat in cashmere and treated leather.
As an RISD alum who has worked for Anna Sui and threeASFOUR respectively, Katie has been able to manage the entire production of her label with limited help. But as she continues to gain recognition (which will no doubt occur, considering the praise she has already received for her latest work), how will she cope with expansion? “It’s all very hard and I’m just trying to figure it all out the best I can. I’m very young, but I feel lucky to be in this spot at my age,” she says. “I do, do almost everything myself, with the help of a few friends. Although I make all of the samples (I’ve sewn over 200 pieces in the studio by myself in the last six months), the production for orders happens outside of my studio. We’re fortunate to work with some great manufacturers in New York.” For a designer in her early 20’s, there’s a calmness about Katie well beyond her years, but she also keeps it moving. “I’m already sketching out SS11! Very excited about my plans for it—it will be a much harder collection.” I can’t wait to see the world she takes us to next.
1.The Curiosity Shoppe – Pizza Zipper Pouch – “I had my wallet stolen, so this pizza slice does just the temporary trick.”
2.Katie Gallagher – Pastiche Zipper Pant – “My pastiche zipper pant is perfect either as a layering piece or just as a pant. They change the look of any outfit, but work easily anywhere! We’re still taking SS10 personal orders at firstname.lastname@example.org.”
3. Cire Trudon – Spiritus Sancti Candle – “Smells are important! Aedes de Venustas scented my show this season, and this is my favorite candle they sell.”
[Presentation photo via Refinery29]