Ah, finally a show season where the clothes match the weather..! The Pre-Fall 2014 collections are well on their way and a few trends are beginning to emerge from all the leather, fur and cashmere.
Calvin Klein, Altuzarra and Thakoon Addition all gave us interpretations of comfort.
Calvin Klein was unmistakably cozy with floor skimming knit dresses, chunky knits cinched with delicate strands of yarn and double-breasted coats, all in shades of gray. Models wore pony-hair slippers and fur mules that had us deeply reconsidering our stilettoes. The collection stayed languid and elegant as it progressed into a pair of crepe georgette sleeveless dresses and an ombré sequin and chiffon evening dress.
Joseph Altuzarra’s collection was easy and comfortable without losing anything in the way of elegance and structure. The designer reimagined a few of his signature looks from the past, giving his side-slit skirt a new A-line shape and his sweater-shirt hybrids new fabrics and cuts. Interjecting a touch of playfulness, the designer stamped the French phrase “Sapeurs-pompiers” across sweaters and mismatched differing cotton plaids. The effect was sophisticated and seemingly effortless.
Thakoon Addition gave us comfort in the way of oversized scarfs, knit ponchos, fringe adorned skirts and knit herringbone leggings. Harkening back to the nineties he mixed dark florals with geometric plaids. In customary Addition fashion there were lots of layers to dissect; wrap skirts layered over cigarette pants and oversized oxford shirts beneath boxy sweaters. A distinctly autumn feel united an otherwise loosely themed collection.
Fendi and Alexander Wang got in touch with their masculine sides, toughening up their collections with menswear-inspired details.
Fendi came back down to earth after a very ethereal spring collection. Fall was tougher, heftier and more solid. There was an artsy motif employed through out the collection, evoked by dyed furs and brushstroke prints. The proportions were oversized and the silhouettes solid. As for the most interesting detail of the collection? Models wore fuzzy knee socks reminiscent of the satyrs from Greek Legend.
Alexander Wang took a less organic approach to masculinity evoking the white-collar, urban understanding of menswear emphasizing suits, button downs and overcoats. Wang’s collection explored the duality of things coming together and things falling apart. Deterioration seemed to be the more prominent of the two, with boxy white shirts that appeared “moth eaten” and cashmere sweaters that seemed to be peeling apart. He also channeled western elements in the way of over the knee cowboy boots and strips of fringe. The whole collection seemed to be a bit of a commentary on the decline of the American dream.