Epicurean Montreal: Where to Eat Now in Quebec’s Culture Capital

Above image: Capsa



Montreal is a small city with a large reputation – a rep that has mainly to do with the quality of life, which includes rolling green parks, stunning architecture, friendly people…and a bountiful food scene. Much like the rest of Quebec Province, Montrealers take immense pride in using local and sustainable ingredients whenever possible, giving their cuisine a uniquely regional flavor. Not to mention the locally brewed beers and local wines sold in specialty shops around the city.

With almost six thousand restaurants and three hundred gourmet food markets, there is always something uniquely delicious waiting just around the corner. And while change comes in Montreal at a manageable pace, we made another visit recently to discover some new fave dining spots – and as ever, were not disappointed.



Branded the “new brunch spot for Vieux Montreal” (meaning, the historic part of the city), this light and airy restaurant crafts coffee and cocktails with an Italian influence. And some of the best biscuits and baked goods in the city, along with their specialty œufs pochés all are perfectly complemented with a Campari spritz or two. Also, don’t miss the Vol-Au-Vent Du Moment. The strikingly designed space features dramatic arches, globe lamps, bright orange banquettes and mod schoolhouse chairs.



Beau Mont

Beau Mont is the latest venture from Normand Leprise, famed chef and restauranteur of Toque and champion of Quebecois ingredients. Located off the beaten track in Parc Extension, the sprawling but welcoming dining room is the setting for local market cuisine, featuring seasonal vegetables and refined techniques – plus, there’s an extensive wine list. The space is a work in progress, with a dedicated area acting as a showcase for the growing pool of local artisan-producers.



Pullman Wine Bar

Sophisticated design, lush décor and a fascinatingly staggered interior make for a place of uniquely low-key luxury. Pullman claims to have over 350 wines, sold by the glass or bottle, including an impressive selection of natural and hard to find bottles. Snacks come sweet or salty, yet all are simple and refined and change seasonally. The grand aioli has a rotating variety of seasonal vegetables from fresh to pickled, and the steak with chimichurri is uncommonly tender and well cooked. Servers are extensively schooled in pairings, ensuring that plats are enjoyed with a perfectly matched cuvée.




This garden level restaurant brings dazzling Portuguese flavors to the city’s Latin Quarter. Located in the hip new Boxotel, it features a daily three-course-menu lunch offering, with dishes like vegan mushroom risotto and braised pork with clams. Highly recommended is their Francesinha, basically a Portuguese croque monsieur, made with house chorizo and a shimmering pan sauce. Capsa is located a little of of the way, but it’s worth the detour for their fresh “crafted” salads alone.



Spade & Palacio

This is the locally founded company that puts on “non-touristy tours,” taking guests to parts of Montreal they may not otherwise see. These include visiting various murals painted by local artists, bike tours and a variety of unique food tours. One of latter, the Beyond the Market Tour, begins in a handful of small, local restaurants like Los Planes on Bélanger Street, where Salvadoran pupusas (flatbreads) are filled and hand shaped, then drenched in sauce and spice at the eater’s discretion. The tour shifts to a local beer and cheese bar, multiple stops at the Jean-Talon market and a fried chicken picnic in Little Italy. With samples of locally made cheese, gelato and even 5th Wave coffee, no food corner is left unturned.

Fall Getaway: Chicago’s Deer Path Inn is Anglophile Nirvana


There are few places we’d rather be in autumn than The Cotswolds, England’s celeb-magnet countryside retreat. But a recent Chicago trip took us to what is surely the best Stateside approximation of the experience: the historic Deer Path Inn. Dating to 1929, it was recently given, if we might say so ourselves, quite a smart makeover – without disturbing a whit of its essential Anglo charms.

Indeed, this is a hotel that takes its proper Englishness very seriously. Located in uber-posh Lake Forest, and just a quick train ride to downtown Windy City, you can veritably shut out the outside world for a few days here, and pretend you’re staying perhaps in Chipping Norton or Stow-on-Wold. Even the music programming (bless) is all Renaissance over Rihanna.

Here are ten brilliant reasons to go this fall/winter.


Lake Forest

One of those impossibly charming little towns, it also happens to be one of the richest in America. There’s an old-timey-seeming train station and a terribly inviting downtown, with elegant little shops lining the century-old Market Square. Bliss.

The Architecture

Dating to 1929, the spot-on Tudor style building in which the Deer Path is housed will make you think you’ve stepped into a nobleman’s estate sometime during the reign of Henry VIII. Ask for a room looking out over the garden, so you don’t actually even have to see any cars from your window during your stay.



The Anglo Soundtrack

Face it, nothing spoils the mood of a historic hotel quite like hearing Katy Perry tunes blasting from the sound system (And we’re pretty sure she wasn’t around in 1929.) Here, the music fits the aesthetic in the most elegant way possible, making for a genuinely atmospheric stay.

The Bedchambers

In a nod to standards of contemporary comfort, this is where the most concessions to modernism were undertaken. And so the rooms are plush but stylishly refined (the Manor House Suites are vigorously recommended), with immersive artwork, elegant antique-styled beds, Frette linens, gorgeous stone bathrooms, and chicly subdued color schemes. Best feature? Rather than the same old cliched mini-bar, there is a classy little bar station with a cultivated spirits selection – perfect for a late night Grand Marnier.


A Proper (But Chic) Afternoon Tea

It took awhile, but cosmopolitan Americans are just now catching on to what the English knew all along: nothing makes an autumn Sunday like a leisurely, fancy afternoon tea. The Deer Path does it trad but modern, with au courant savories like smoked salmon pinwheel, shrimp and lobster salad croissant, and, for that global/Eastern touch, the Deer Path Inn Maki. They’ve got their own 1929 Blend tea; but we loved the Cherry Fig, the Pomegranate Dragon Fruit and the Chinese Snow Buds (all curated by Master of Tea, one Malcolm Ferris-Lay). The scones, especially, are to die for. And it’s all taken in a chic garden-view sunroom / conservatory with strikingly pattered flooring and stylishly contemporary table settings. (It feels a bit like being at Selfridge’s…)

The White Hart Pub / The Bar

Sometimes you just needs a good “bangers and mash.” And The Bar, where the scene gets a bit more buzzy, does one of the best versions this side of the Atlantic. But it also serves up some serious sushi – perhaps a Nigiri platter or king crab maki paired with a Pure Dawn Sake? The subterranean room is done up in cool, contemporary-clubby style, with a coffered ceiling, lots of dark leather – and a private wine room. Next room over is the more cozy White Hart Pub, great for a cider fish n chips, Welsh lamb stew and a couple of pints while you take in a Liverpool F.C. or London Arsenal match.

The English Room

Naturally, they would have a restaurant called The English Room. And while the main dining room, with its beamed ceiling, oil paintings and medieval-ish chandeliers, is a bit more minding-of-your-manners, one can also choose to dine in the casual conservatory or garden. Start with a classic English pea soup, and either stick to the Anglo theme with the almond crusted Dover sole, or cross the Channel for the utterly sublime foie gras in cherry port reduction. The also really know their wines.

The Garden

Lorded over by a majestic and watchful-eyed buck sculpture, this is where fashionable ladies (and gents) come to lunch away the afternoon, especially at the weekend. There’s a graceful fireplace for chillier weather.



Mr. Nutkin

Some of our favorite hotels have mascots: The Jefferson in DC has Monti the beagle, Le Bristol in Paris has its two Burmese cats Fa-raon and Kléopatre. But the Deer Path has a…squirrel. The inimitable Mr. Nutkin doesn’t actually reside indoors, of course. But he lives on the grounds and shows up for regular feedings and Instagram ops. Don’t check out without having met the little guy.

Pair With Your Favourite British Band

Play to the theme by booking in to The Deer Path to coincide with a Chicago tour appearance by your favorite British music artists. May we suggest? Slowdive play the Vic Theatre November 5; Modern English are at the Empty Bottle November 7; and the inimitable (Steven Patrick) Morrissey will be at the Riviera Theater November 25.




Opera, Naughty Angels and Extraordinary Snails: A Rather Elegant Whirl Through Paris

Above Image: Palais Garnier

What we had always most loved about Paris was its stubborn resistance to change. Vive la ville de la lumière!

But “branded” hipster encroachment has worryingly taken over such districts as the Bastille, Pigalle, and Belleville. And frankly, we’ve already had enough of the goofy facial hair and over-produced cocktails back in New York.

So, upon our most recent visit to the French capital, we decided to skip the hip, and revisit some of the things that for us make Paris so…intemporel. To her we never tire of saying, ne changez jamais, don’t ever change.

Here’s what we did.


Tour the Palais Garnier

Sure, there’s La Scala in Milan and Staatsoper in Vienna; but Paris’s oh-so-grandiosely-grand opera house has something more of the intrigue about it – after all, this is where Le Fantôme was born. Fittingly, we exchanged philosophical arrows with our brilliantly eccentric guide and, ultimately, we lost. She also regaled us with the history of seating hierarchy (N.B. Ask about tickets for the “hidden” seats, which can be booked for just 10 euro.)

Revisit Georges at The Pompidou

It was the pinnacle of all Parisian super-fabulousness when it debuted back in 2000 (remember how optimistic we were back then?). But Georges – the crown jewel of the Costes empire – is once again, or perhaps maybe still, tres fashionable…which is very well with us, since we’d go for the view alone. Perched spectacularly atop the Centre Pompidou museum, its space age decor now seems a brilliantly futuristic counterpoint to all that grumpy hipster old-timeyness. But the international menu dazzles like the vistas of Paris, including possibly the most awesome croque monsieur in the city, and the appropriately titled Extraordinary Snails.



Take in a Gripoix Glass Jewelry Workshop

Renowned for the Chanel Gripoix jewels, worn by the likes of Rihanna and Emma Watson, this workshop, opened on the gorgeous Place des Victoires in late 2015, sells the brand’s own dazzling collection. Upstairs we watched as bespoke (note correct use of word) pieces were being created for moneyed clients. But on the ground floor, you can buy strikingly colorful necklaces, earrings and brooches for surprisingly approachable prices.

Go “Behind the Scent” at Serge Lutens

He’s the mystical French guru of fragrance. And entering his flagship boutique, hidden mysteriously away amidst the gardens of the Palais Royal, is like being welcomed into a sacred space. There are secret hideaways with astrological references and nautical charts, an upstairs sanctuary done up with Asian wall panels, even a Virtual Reality room…with medieval furnishings. The ethereal signature scents have magically poetic descriptions – for instance “Deliver us from Good! Jasmine petals are as white as snow. Black is my religion.” (La religieuse) and “She’s a rose with thorns, don’t mess with her. She’s a girl who goes to extremes. When she can, she soothes; and when she wants … !” (La fille de Berlin). An experience.


Get Bespoke Shoes Made at Non-Bespoke Prices

Tucked away in the charming Passage des Deux Pavillons in the 1st Arrondissement, Derville is an unassuming little shop that makes some of the best custom shoes in Paris. And they can be had for as little as…$700. The trick? They use a machine for the soles – though you’d never know it. And not just for business types, the shoes come in colors like pink, orange and sky blue.

Have a Glamorous Dinner at Mini Palais

Part of the awe-inspiring Grand Palais museum and exhibition complex, this is the place to go when you’ve had enough of all those charmingly low-key bistrotheques. Despite the name, it’s a statement restaurant in the best sense. Climb a grand staircase, enter into a dramatic foyer, and emerge into a dining room with arched windows, high ceilings and impeccable style. The menu is by Eric Frechon, Paris’ most exalted chef: lemon potato gnocchi, cod in tamarind crust, roasted scallops with fine truffle muslin. There’s also a plush outdoor terrace amidst the classical columns.


Stay: The Hilton Paris Opera

Face it, you’d stay for the name alone. It says to everyone, “Yes, I am staying somewhere grand in Paris.” Recently made over, there’s now a contemporary sparkle to its 19th Century majesty. The rooms have been done up with a stylish, modern elegance – and those looking out towards Gare Saint Lazare offer supreme Parisian-street-life watching.
But we spent most of our time in Le Grand Salon, literally a listed historic monument – with forty-five-foot ceilings, glittering chandeliers and cool, modern furnishings. You can breakfast like the Marquess of Something-or-Other, or try to spot the naughty angels amongst the stunning frescoes over a few rounds of Hugo Saint Germain champagne cocktails. There’s a Le Pain Quotidien on site, as well, should you need something a little less, say, imposing, for an important biz lunch.
And just step out of the hotel in you’re in Lazare, the casual but super buzzy new bistro – also from the many Michelin-starred Eric Frechon – in the station of the same name. The sausages and mashed potatoes are genuinely life-altering.


  • Hilton Paris Opera
  • Hilton Paris Opera
  • Hilton Paris Opera

Let Los Feliz School You on Today’s Finest Tequila

You think you know tequila? Perhaps you do, but I guarantee you’ll find a few bottles behind the bar at Manhattan’s Los Feliz that you haven’t yet had the pleasure of sampling. I certainly did. I recently spent a pleasurable hour on a barstool there under the guidance of head bartender Ben Carrier, who took me through some of the Lower East Side tequileria’s most interesting and eye-opening offerings. With a tequila menu divided into blanco (unrested), reposado (rested less than one year), and añejo (rested beyond one year) categories, he quickly got me up to speed on the many beautiful expressions of the fruit of the agave plant. I highly recommend that every spirits enthusiast submit to the same rigorous training regimen.

If you swore off tequila years ago, realize that today’s finest bottles are miles from the swill that gave you the worst hangover of your life back in college. When you’re at Los Feliz you can forget about the lick-slam-suck ritual designed the mask the flavor of rotgut. Every one of the 120-plus tequilas you’ll find there are meant to be sipped as you would a fine Scotch. From the Hacienda del Cristero blanco to the Milagro Select Barrel reposado to the Don Pilar añejo, you’ll want to savor every sip, rather than getting it in your belly as quickly as possible before the wet T-shirt contest begins. Unless you’re some kind of jimador, you’ll need some guidance, so tell Carrier (or whoever happens to be behind the bar) a little about your preferences, and you’ll have a mind-blowing tequila in front of you in no time. 
But what if straight spirits aren’t your thing, and you prefer the complexity of well-made cocktails? Again, you’re in the right place. I’ve enjoyed many margaritas in my day, but never thought of them as anything more than a fun and frivolous drink to enjoy in the sunshine, certainly not a sophisticated and nuanced cocktail. With one sip, the Los Feliz Classic changed my mind on the subject. Made with Pueblo Viejo Blanco, fresh lime juice, and organic raw agave, it’s a mildly sweet and an amazingly well-balanced drink sure to please even the most discerning cocktail drinker. It’s a margarita that’s been to finishing school, refreshing and delightful. And if you don’t love it, there are a half-dozen other margarita varieties to choose from, not one of which is extruded from a neon-green slushie machine. 
Once you’ve had a few sips, order some red snapper ceviche from chef Julieta Ballesteros’ dinner menu and explore the funky tri-level space. From the street-level Taqueria, which faces Ludlow Street, find your way to the secret door that leads to the Cobble Room, with muraled walls and a gorgeous marble bar. A few more steps down brings you to the lounge, which boasts a DJ, chandeliers, antique mirrors, and leather banquettes: perfect for a private party with a few dozen of your closest friends. 
Back at the bar, you’ll probably be feeling a bit more adventurous at this point, so go ahead and splurge on a glass of Porfidio añejo ($19) and watch the pedestrians rush down the sidewalk in a stress-fueled hurry that you simply don’t feel anymore.