This season Missoni transformed it’s pristine white Milan showroom into, well, a pristine white gallery for its latest men’s collection. On display, a sublime counterbalance between the brand’s savvy reconstructs of tailored classics including its signature, luxuriously colored knitwear, and the organic sculptures of the U.S.-based Swedish-Chilean artist Anton Alvarez.
Angela Missoni, always a fashion maverick, continues to explore and draw her inspiration from the contemporary art world. So the pairing of the label’s colorful heritage with the influence of Alvarez – whose creativity reflects a process that oscillates between tradition and innovation – results in a an entirely new vision for the men’s collection. Indeed, the sculptor’s extruder-produced pieces turned out to be the perfect complement. However the eclectic use of color and material across all the looks – a demonstrated playfulness between designer and artist – are all unmistakably Missoni.
Ensembles created for the modern jet set, the Missoni finesse with a dash of effortless cool is ever present this season. Structured silhouettes are narrow and elongated, the refined color palette of soft gradients enchants, and the house’s foray into evening wear delights with its take on the ho-hum tuxedo (think lamé and loom-knit fabrics, very 70s soigné). The smartly tailored blazers and high-waisted tapered trousers almost serve as the sensible foundation for the Alvarez-influenced cable knits: sweaters flecked with mohair to create abstract motifs and handmade roll-necks with whirling relief patterns that have been embroidered by hand. Each unique piece, a dynamic interplay of pattern and texture, reinterprets the sinuous whirls and undulations of his sculptural forms.
Reverberating with artsy charm, chic informality and cultural cues, Missoni has done it again. Luxuriously soft knitwear in cashmere, fleecy wool to envelop the body, chunky bombers with velvet collars, reversible dégradé cardigans and crewnecks and shawl collar and roll-neck sweaters. Missoni Man has ensured that there are reimagined staples here for every gent looking to stand out, yet stand out in a slightly more subtle fashion.