First Images: New Henrik Vibskov Flagship Opens in Copenhagen

 

 

Arguably the unofficial international figurehead of the “New Nordic Movement” (traceable back to the early oughts, when the opening of the Øresund Bridge connected Sweden and Denmark, and made anything seem possible), Henrik Vibskov represents perhaps one of the last of a generation of “rock star” designers.

After graduating from London’s Central Saint Martin’s in 2001, the provocative Dane’s eponymous fashion label rejected Scandinavian minimalism for a more theatrical, colorful bohemian aesthetic – yet with a distinct attention to tailoring and craftsmanship. After producing his infamous The Big Wet Shiny Boobies Collection, he opened his first Copenhagen shop in 2006 – before also taking up in New York’s Soho in 2011.

 

 

Now, just in time for holiday shopping for your most flamboyantly fashionable friends, the new Henrik Vibskov flagship has opened in the Danish capital, along the buzzing Gammel Mønt. The clean lined, cavernous space was designed by Clover Studio (a London and Copenhagen based concern), and its defining feature is a series of red roping, fastened to tabletops above and below, creating something of a stalactite/stalagmite effect. Large arched windows take in the graceful historic architecture of the surrounding neighborhood.

Stocked are the full range of uniquely stylish offerings, including shoes, sneakers and accessories.

Ever the thoughtful provocateur (as well as artist, film director and musician), Vibskov’s most recent, Spring 2020 collection was titled “Stuck Under the Surface,” a commentary on human stagnation and entropy. Which, considering this dazzling new flagship boutique, he is in absolutely no danger of being guilty of.

 

The Dior S/S 2020 Collection is an Homage to the Gardens of the Legendary Designer’s Sister

 

 

We never tire of Dior’s ability to bring together the classical and the innovative – to be sure, the house continues to set the pace for the industry while still finding ways to invoke its rich heritage.

And once again our expectations were exceeded, as Dior delivered a stunner at their Spring/Summer 2020 runway show at Paris Fashion Week. In an homage to the legendary couturier’s sister Catherine, an avid gardener – who was actually best known as a key figure in the Resistance against the Nazis during World War II – the theme of the collection, and the show, was that of a garden.

 

 

Dior Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri explains, “I started this collection by thinking about a key inspiration for Christian Dior: the garden…which Catherine Dior, his sister, grew and nurtured as a professional florist.”

Against a scenography of live trees inside the venue, Chiuri unveiled a collection inspired by photographs of Catherine, in which she appears amidst her flowers. The set was conceived as an “inclusive garden,” unfolding across a wealth of plant species, and raising questions about the role of everything living on our planet. The traveling grove used in the show, which will ultimately be planted, celebrates the biodiversity of wooded spaces and other elements of sustainability.

 

 

And indeed, biodiversity is celebrated via the integration of floral motifs against avant-garde silhouettes throughout the bold collection. For Spring/Summer 2020 ready-to-wear, Chiuri was featuring nature, in light of contemporary challenges. (Dior went as far as to create a short film around Emanuele Coccia, author of the newly released book The Life of Plants.)

“It appeared essential to me that this legacy be addressed with a new perspective,” she enthuses. “Flowers and plants don’t just serve an ornamental purpose, they are our environment. We have a commitment to care for them, today more than ever.”

Of course, we love the awareness raised in the theme as much as the designs themselves, as a new era of environmental consciousness takes over high fashion.

 

Missoni’s Spring/Summer 2020 Collection is Inspired by Jane Birkin + Serge Gainsbourg

 

 

When the storied romance of Jane Birkin and Serge Gainsbourg is the muse for a fashion collection, you know it is going to be equally passionate and complex. And Angela Missoni perfectly captures their ’70s luxe bohemian lifestyle and fluidity of spirit in her Missoni Spring/Summer 2020 collection, which we have a first glimpse of here.

With an evocative show staged at a public pool in Milan (see the full video below), the exalted designer sought to convey freedom from gender with pieces that she envisioned Serge and Jane effortlessly sharing on a whim: Birkin slipping on a tailored ombre jacket over a floral dress, or Gainsbourg indulging in a sheer knit lurex top. (La liberté!)

 

 

The house’s signature stripes were paired with a patchwork of elements including bright florals, windowpane checks, stripes, and knits shot through with metallic threads – sometimes all in the same ensemble. Equally colorful platform shoes were balanced with beaded baskets filled with freshly cut flowers to evoke a breezy summer feeling. (We miss it already.)

During the finale, the models emerged holding portable Little Sun solar lights to bring awareness to climate change, and highlight Missoni’s prominent sustainability efforts.

 

Dua Lipa Stars With an Eagle in New YSL Beauté ‘Libre’ Campaign

 

 

Dua Lipa is free to do what she wants. And smell beautiful doing it.

Indeed, the model turned songstress was been tapped by YSL Beauté as the brand ambassador for their latest fragrance, Libre, which is French for “free.” And as someone who has a rocked a few memorably androgynous looks, advocating a scent that walks the line between masculine and feminine seems perfectly reasonable. Her utterly modern take on classic beauty does genuinely seem to embody the Libre ethos.

Proof of YSL’s enthusiasm for the collaboration was the splashy NYFW party we attended for the launch – for which the Classic Car Club on the Hudson River was transformed into a seductive playground, with an interactive Freedom Wall, where we were given the opportunity to film our own Freedom Manifesto (we’ll spare you the result). DJ Caroline Polachek and free-flowing champagne entertained the considerable style/culture cognoscenti, including Anwar Hadid, Diplo, Mark Ronson, Zara Larsson, Elsa Hosk, Lauren Wasser and Halima Aden.

The campaign itself shows Dua Lipa communing with a majestic looking eagle, while an update of the The Stones’ classic “I’m Free” provides the musical backdrop. Here’s what it looks like.

 

Images: Karlie Kloss, Natalia Dyer, Hannah Chan Turn Out For Dior Paris Flagship Opening

 

 

The news that the Dior Paris flagship would be moving to a new address along the Champs-Élysées certainly had the fashion set chattering, as the exalted house’s 30 Avenue Montaigne headquarters has long been a place of legend.

So last night’s official opening soiree unsurprisingly brought out the style cognoscenti in impressive numbers, to ooh and ahh at the gorgeous new 3000 square meter space. Indeed, counted amongst the party people were Stranger Things star Natalia Dyer, model Karlie Kloss, actress Nina Dobrev, style legend Bianca Jagger, and Japanese multi-hyphenate Mirei Kiritani. Hong Kong actress Hanna Chan was especially striking and iconoclastic in a Dior Winter 2019-2020 checkered black and red tulle dress.

It’s actually just a temporary home, as 30 Avenue Montaigne is currently undergoing an extensive renovation – though it will be a two-year process, as Dior simply doesn’t happen overnight. Still and all, the new digs at 127 Avenue des Champs-Élysées are genuinely not to be missed for true Dior devotees.

 

 

Legendary GQ Creative Director Jim Moore on Personal Style, Young Designers, and Dropping Jake Gyllenhaal in the Middle of Times Square

 

 

Jim Moore, the legendary Creative Director-at-Large for GQ, has just penned a magnificent chronicle of his four decades of breakthrough, iconic work for the men’s fashion bible – and we can’t put it down. The book, which features a forward by Kanye West, is aptly titled Hunks and Heroes, and takes us through some of his most memorable work, capturing the style of captains of industry, pop culture celebs, politicos and artists.

In 1980, Moore landed at GQ as an assistant, but quickly rose through the ranks, as his creative talent did not go unnoticed. Along the way, he brought men’s fashion out of the shadows, both celebrating and demystifying fashion for the American male. He made the fantasy real, and the reality fantastic. Though perhaps his most notable contribution was his ability to bring the world of serious fashion into the mainstream.

 

 

In Hunks and Heroes, Moore treats readers to the stories behind the stories – from a glimpse of the unseen detail that goes into the production, to colorful anecdotes of his interactions with celebrities and their myriad idiosyncrasies. Stories include the time he used double-sided tape to affix a basketball to the palm of a rising star called Michael Jordan, and the time he made President Barack Obama change his tie to one he deemed more fashion forward and emblematic of his commanding presence.

Moore uses both image and prose to unveil the creative process behind some of the most memorable covers, and imparts his own brand of fashion advice. This volume features over 250 archival images of the author’s collaborations with the most talented photographers, such as Inez & Vinoodh, Peggy Sirota, and Craig McDean, and includes seminal GQ photos Moore masterminded of such a-listers as LeBron James, Ryan Gosling, Leonardo Di Caprio, David Beckham, Drake, Matt Damon, Jon Hamm, Justin Bieber and Brad Pitt, amongst others.

BlackBook caught up with Moore for an exclusive chat following his signing at Rizzoli Bookstore in New York.

 

 

Of the behind-the-scenes stories you share in Hunks and Heroes, which is your most memorable and why?

When you produce a shoot, you have a triple duty: you have to be able to show the clothes, you have to show who the person is, and then you have to give the background some context or, at times, a contrast between the subject and the surrounding. I love the ones where we crowdsourced: those are shoots where we intentionally drop the celebrity in a public place and just see what happens. About seven years ago, I was doing a spread for GQ with Jake Gyllenhaal, who I’d shot several times before, and I needed to come up with something different. I decided that shooting Jake in public places, rather than at a studio, would make for the best backdrop, and he and his publicist agreed.

Where exactly?

We started downtown on the Lower East Side at Katz’s Deli, then moved to Economy Candy on Rivington Street, and finally, and I might add with a pending snowstorm, landed him among a crowd in Times Square. If you are visiting New York as a tourist, it’s probably the first place you go. But it’s also the last place you would expect to see a celebrity. So as the van pulled up to Times Square and Jake got out and walked into a crowd I had a lump in my throat – not knowing whether anyone would actually notice him and what the reaction would be. Imagine that you’re in Times Square visiting from Wisconsin and you’re looking around and all of a sudden this major A-List celebrity is right in front of you!

What happened from there?

It quickly turned into a polite mob – with women moving towards Jake and taking selfies with him using an early version iPhone. It was just an amazing scene and it turned out brilliantly. It inspired me to do something very similar with Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson amongst a crowd at Venice Beach. Both events are featured in double page spreads in the book. If you have the right person, you can put them out in public and experiment with the energy and organic uncertainty of the crowd.

 

 

In a world increasingly dominated by fast fashion, how can American men who strive to establish a distinctive personal style differentiate themselves from the pack?

Many of the brands that are putting out fast fashion are doing a great job of making fashion available at an accessible price point. What I would suggest to men is that you select a few items to integrate in your wardrobe that are a higher price point – higher quality and more distinctive. You can manage to differentiate yourself and make it more of a reflection of you and less generic. It’s a way to show your personal style. If you are a man of great style, or a man who aspires to great style, those stores offer some great basics, but you will still want to enhance that [with something unique].

You have to consider quality too.

The fast fashion companies enable someone to experiment with looks that are on trend and take a risk without making a heavy investment in something that would otherwise be very expensive. I would caution men to look at the quality of the product, to beware of copies, and to still invest in pieces or accessories that would be your signature look or style – for instance, buy a piece that is a little loud and proud that will be unique to you.

 

 

There are so many emerging designers entering the fashion space, with social media opening doors to them in ways that traditional marketing could not. But there is a lot of clutter in the market. What advice would you give to emerging designers about breaking through and having the staying power to compete effectively?

That is a passion of mine at GQ – that I can actually mentor young talent. The need to recognize and provide a platform for young designers is why we started the Best New Menswear Designers in America in 2005. We recognized that a lot of them needed a little push and we did that, not only by giving them good real estate in the magazine, but also eventually connecting them to established retailers and getting their name out there.
I love to look at collections of new designers, but I need to know that they are in it to win it – that they recognize that fashion is a business. It’s great that you have a talent and see it as art, but you need to have a good plan. You’ve produced a first season, and that’s great, but do you have the plan in place to produce the second season and get it to market? How are you going to obtain funding and scale production? Being creative is not enough.

 

 

10 Corso Como’s ‘bold, beautiful and damned’ Pays Homage to Legendary Fashion Illustrator Tony Viramontes

 

 

10 Corso Como, it turns out, has transitioned effortlessly from the rarefied heights of fashionista Milan to the more approachable confines of NYC’s newly revitalized Seaport District. Still archly conceptual and multi-faceted, the new outpost integrates fashion, design and art, and its eponymous Italian restaurant allows one to stop and consider all they’ve just seen (and purchased).

One thing that simply must be seen is a striking new exhibit at 10 CC’s in-house gallery of the works of late and lamented fashion photographer and illustrator Tony Viramontes. It’s co-sponsored by Fondazione Sozzani, a foundation whose mission is to promote the intersection of fashion and art.

 

 

With Tony Viramontes: bold, beautiful and damned, they’ve assembled a breathtaking overview of his iconic fashion illustrations, mixed media collages, and photographs from the 1980s, curated by design historian Dean Rhys Morgan. Viramontes, who was lost to AIDS in 1988, was a prolific and trailblazing creator of fashion art, collaborating with some of the most exalted fashion houses, sketching haute couture collections for Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino, Chanel, and Christian Dior. His work was featured in virtually every major fashion publication of the day – and even graced the cover of 1985’s So Red the Rose album by Arcadia, whose members included Duran Duran’s Simon LeBon and Nick Rhodes.

Also a clothing designer, makeup artist and hair stylist, his illustrations quickly becoming known for his bold, graphic lines and dramatic use of color. Viramontes challenged the status quo with drawings of dominant women dressed in the theatrical haute couture of the day. His models posed in make-up, jewelry and exotic turbans.

 

 

 

 

“Tony was the enfant terrible of fashion illustration,” says Rhys Morgan. “His strong and direct drawing style was a marked contrast to the whispered, pastelly, WASPy visuals of the time. There was an insolence about his women. They were very hard and aggressive.”

Of course, his depictions of men exhibited the same sort of audacious sensuousness, boldly stretching the boundaries of masculine identity.

Working in pencil, charcoal, collage and occasionally even lipstick or eyebrow pencil, Viramontes decisively revived the tradition of selling fashion through drawing, which had largely been sidelined by photography at the outset of the 1980s. And in changing the way we viewed high fashion illustration, he created images that remain unquestionably influential to this day.

Tony Viramontes: bold, beautiful and damned will be on exhibit at 10 Corso Como NYC from September 8 through November 10.

 

 

NYFW Spotlight: The Miron Crosby x Prabal Gurung Collection is Rife w/ American Symbolism

 

 

Tired of the same old collabs coming out of New York Fashion Week?

Fear not, avant-garde boot maker Miron Crosby, the brand that has decisively brought the cowboy boot into the 21st Century, has just debuted its collab with design visionary Prabal Gurung, with a ‘New West’ line that revives the iconic 1960s rodeo boot shape. The style was originally worn by women during a time of great social change in America.

The Miron Crosby x Pabal Gurung collection, which debuted in at NYFW September 8th, features a plunging scallop, midi-height and open pull holes sweetly wrapped in paisley. Patent leather – a first for Miron Crosby – adds a futuristic touch to the design. ’New West’ will be available in five bold colorways – including a cool all-white, a cardinal patent energized with an imperial red croc overlay, and a deep obsidian that comes to life across a croc and python pairing.

 

 

In contrast, the maximalist ‘Legend’ style is marked by intricate stitching reminiscent of traditional cowboy boots dating back to the 1880s. The inclusion of a delicately cut-out modern-day rose motif above the heel adds a touch of unexpected romance and patriotism (the rose is the National Flower of America). It mimics the roses seen throughout the Prabal Gurung Spring 2020 ready-to-wear collection and speaks to the brand ideal of celebrating femininity with a bite. The ‘Legend’ is available in three colorways, including a mirrored rose gold leather and quartet of smooth leathers in pink parfait, mint, daffodil and celeste blue.

The boots produced in collaboration with Miron Crosby are the perfect accessory to Prabal Gurung’s Spring/Summer 2020 line, which pays homage to American heritage through the use of traditionally American symbols such as roses and tie-dye.

The designer enthuses, “Miron Crosby is reinventing western wear by bringing consumers premium, handcrafted artisanal boots with cutting edge designs. I am thrilled to be collaborating with them as part of my label’s 10th anniversary celebrations, which honors creativity, individuality and inclusivity,”

 

 

Gurung, who did indeed fete the anniversary at his NYFW runway show on Sunday, is a Nepalese immigrant who gained early support from the Ecco Domani Fashion Fund and the CFDA. He has since used his success to advocate for immigration and women’s rights, having woven important social messages into his work and contributed proceeds to related human and civil rights organizations. In a not so subtle critique of current US policy, his Sunday evening show was capped off with an ethnically diverse crew of models wearing a sash labeled, ‘Who gets to be American?’

Miron Crosby is a bespoke cowboy boot brand started in 2017 by sisters Lizzie Means Duplantis and Sarah Means. The pair envisioned bringing an elevated yet authentic boot to the market with a “ranch to runway” versatility, inspired by their experiences growing up in West Texas and later living in New York City. Each pair of boots is handmade in the 160-year-old Rios of Mercedes factory in Mercedes, Texas, using century-old techniques.

The Miron Crosby x Prabal Gurung collection will be available on MironCrosby.com and PrabalGurung.com.

 

‘Thierry Mugler: Couturissime’ Will Open This Fall at the Kunsthal Rotterdam

Helmut Newton, photo shoot for the catalogue of the collection
Lingerie Revisited, Monaco, 1998.
Photo: © The Helmut Newton Estate.
Outfit: Thierry Mugler, Lingerie Revisited collection, prêt-à-porter
fall/winter 1998–1999

 

 

In 2011, the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts presented the landmark exhibition The Fashion World of Jean-Paul Gaultier – effectively illustrating how a new generation of designers had extended the influence of fashion far beyond its traditional perimeters. The show went on to tour eleven more cities, including New York, London, Paris, Melbourne and Seoul.

Another such radically brilliant designer is Strasbourg’s own Thierry Mugler, who also rocketed to stardom amidst the wild experimentation of the 80s; and like JPG, his talents were, and are, legion. So it’s hardly a surprise the MMFA would make him the focus of yet another monumental survey, Thierry Mugler: Creatures of Haute Couture, which debuted in March of this year.

Now it will make its way t0 Europe, where a reimagined edition titled Thierry Mugler: Couturissime will open at the venerable Kunsthal Rotterdam, one of the Continent’s most innovative cultural institutions.

 

Helmut Newton, Johanna; Vogue (US), November 1995.
Photo: © The Helmut Newton Estate.
Outfit: Thierry Mugler, Anniversaire des 20 ans collection,
prêt-à-porter fall/winter 1995–1996.

 

On display will be more than 150 outfits created between 1977 and 2014, including costumes for the staging of Shakespeare’s Macbeth by the Comédie-Française at the Festival d’Avignon, and Cirque du Soleil’s daring Zumanity…along with never-before seen accessories and stage costumes, archival documents, sketches and videos.

“I have always been fascinated,” Mugler reveals, “by the most beautiful animal on Earth: the human being. I have used all of the tools at my disposal to sublimate this creature: fashion, shows, perfumes, photography, video…”

Most fascinating will be the exhibition’s exploration of his storied history of famous – and infamous – collaborations, including the considerable likes of David Bowie, Lady Gaga, Isabelle Huppert, Juliette Binoche, Andrée Putman, Herb Ritts, Helmut Newton and David LaChappelle. Not to mention his “Too Funky” video for the late George Michael.

 

Ellen von Unwerth, Eva Herzigová, behind the scenes at the
Thierry Mugler fashion show, Paris, 1992.
Photo : © Ellen von Unwerth.
Outfit: Thierry Mugler, Les Cow-boys collection,
prêt-à-porter spring/summer 1992.

 

Not unlike the Gaultier show, many of the galleries – designed by artists Michel Lemieux and Philipp Fürhofer, along with special effects studio Rodeo FX – will have an immersive quality. The mannequins have been custom created by Hans Boodt Mannequins, also of Rotterdam.

The Kunsthal, it must be said, has become a leader in the staging of high-profile fashion exhibitions, having last year presented Viktor&Rolf: Fashion Artists 25 Years. And the museum’s Director Emily Ansenk enthuses of the Mugler show, “We consider it a great honor to be able to present yet another fashion icon to the Dutch public this autumn.”

Thierry Mugler: Couturissime will be on exhibit from October 11, 2019 to March 8, 2020.

 

 

From top:
Christian Gautier, stage costumes for the show Mugler Follies,
2013. Photo: Christian Gautier / © Manfred Mugler.
Outfits: Thierry Mugler.
Patrice Stable
Photo: © Patrice Stable.
Outfit: Thierry Mugler, Les Insectes collection,
haute couture spring/summer 1997.
Thierry Mugler, stage costume for the character of First Witch.
Centre national du costume de scène, D-CF-2234G.
Photo: © CNCS Pascal François