Is it Fall Yet? Our Favorite NYFW Collections We Can’t Wait to Wear

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Alexander Wang F/W ’18

 

Is it just us or is fall fashion just so much better than spring? That was definitely the case at the NYFW FW18 shows the past two weeks. And so while most New Yorkers might be pining for spring sunshine throughout this temperamental (but mostly cold) Northeast winter, we find ourselves counting down the days until September finally returns, and we can look cute again.

From Matrix-inspired office wear at Alexander Wang to ’80s power suits at Marc Jacobs and ’00s-era Paris Hilton puppy vibes at Gauntlett Cheng, we’ve compiled here our favorite Fashion Week moments – plus two honorable mentions because, well, we just couldn’t bear to narrow it down.

 

Alexander Wang

 

 

We’ve loved Alexander Wang since he first debuted his part minimalist, part rock ‘n’ roll It-girl uniforms; but we have to say, the last few seasons have left us with a never-ending #WANGOVER. This season, though, the San Fransisco born designer channeled The Matrix-meets-The Office, delivering a range of post-apocalyptic professional wear that we want every piece of – especially, the fur-lined ’90s CK-inspired undies.

 

Marc Jacobs

 

 

Marc Jacobs is basically the Alexander Wang of the late ’90s. So, needless to say, we’re giant fans. But much like last season’s awful #WANGOVER, Marc has fallen off a bit the last few years. I mean, remember the dreadlocks fiasco? Still, it seams Jacobs got the memo (or finally found it again), and this season felt like a return to form. Part ’80s power suit, part goth noir, the Marc Jacobs FW18 collection felt like Bianca Jagger in her white suit days, if she had Grace Jones’ attitude and Siouxsie’s sense of color. What more could you possibly as for?

 

Eckhaus Latta

 

 

One of fashion’s favorite new brands, Eckhaus Latta has mastered minimalism in its purest form. For their FW18 collection, designers Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta built upon the easy going feel of their last few seasons, but experimented more with shape and color than they ever have before. While the knits and sheer dresses fit right into the Eckhaus Latta playbook, bright yellow flowy fabrics were a new look for the brand. Overall, the collection was bold but understated, yet what Eckhaus Latta does best isn’t actually their clothes. Season after season, and despite its growing popularity, the brand remains dedicated to its outsider ethos. And did we mention their casting always rules? This season saw a diverse runway filled with New York City favorites, including model Paloma Elsesser and indie rock royalty Coco Gordon-Moore.

 

Tom Ford

 

 

Nobody does sleek and sexy like Tom Ford. This season, the designer went all in with leopard print, mixing loud colors with the even louder print in all different sizes from head-to-toe. Not only did each look feel totally timeless, you’ve got to give it to someone who can make lime green or bright red leopard print look not only classy, but cool.

 

Chromat

 

 

Another one of the fashion industry’s favorite young designers, Becca McCharen-Tran built Chromat to empower women of all shapes, sizes and colors. While most brands have embraced a long overdue push for diversity on the runway (not looking at you, Stefano Gabbana), Chromat also delivers it IRL. With a focus on emerging technology and body positivity, the label pushes boundaries and challenges the fashion status quo. For her latest collection, McCharen stuck with oranges and neons, accessorizing each look with Flaming Hot Cheeto bags tied to models’ pants and in their hands. Rapper Slay Rizz finished out the show with a killer performance in an orange two-piece by Chromat, and even though we didn’t get any cheese puffs to go, we were sold.

 

Dion Lee

 

 

Since launching his eponymous label in 2009, Australian designer Dion Lee has consistently delivered classic yet forward-thinking clothing, with his FW18 collection serving as further proof of his talent. Outfitting traditional sportswear looks with architectural bra-tops, it seems Lee also watched The Matrix and The Office before designing his collection. But unlike Wang’s, the Dion Lee range felt modern, not futuristic – the Neo influence was subtle. Lee also brought in more feminine elements, juxtaposing the structured suits and tops with flowy skirts.

 

Gypsy Sport

 

 

Ever since winning the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2015, Rio Uribe has been making waves with his brand Gypsy Sport. Inspired by New York City, Uribe turned heads last year when he decided to present his Spring collection in Paris. But for FW18, Uribe returned to the city, thank god. Other than that, though, this was an all new Gypsy Sport. Over the last few years, the brand has become recognizable for their upcycled jerseys and I <3 NY logo tees, with the Gypsy Sport name in place of the heart. This season, Uribe ditched the streetwear element, presenting a romantic collection filled with suits and gothic ruffles, as well as a few sustainable aluminum looks. Of course, the designer stuck to his habit of using friends and members of the LGBTQ community as models, including 10-year-old activist and drag star Desmond is Amazing, who stole the show (and probably all of Fashion Week). Known for his willingness to experiment, it’s hard to tell whether this collection was a one-off, or the evolution of the brand. Either way, it doesn’t really matter, because whatever Gypsy Sport does is really, really good.

 

Adam Selman

 

 

Another CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund alum, Adam Selman won Fashion Week in our book. The FW18 collection was kinky, it was campy, it was part John Waters, part new wave, it was punk as fuck. Featuring a collaboration with artist Cheyco Leidmann, who created the surrealist prints Selman used on dresses and shirts, the range was bold and colorful, mixing prints, patterns and styles in an ode to photographer Ypsitylla Von Nazareth. In addition to the outfits, Selman also debuted his latest collection for sunglasses brand Le Specs. If you haven’t already been spotting his metallic cat-eyes for the last few years, get ready – this season’s heart-adorned versions are about to be everywhere. We want ours now.

 

Vaquera

 

 

Most people had never heard of New York City brand Vaquera before last NYFW, when they debuted a dress made only of blue and gold credit cards. For some reason, the look ended up on every news outlet, even though it was one of the weakest of the show. (We’re not saying we didn’t like it – we did.) What Vaquera does best is their more subtle work. This season, the designers seemed to realize that as well, presenting a range of deconstructed pieces that were delicate and cool. The highlights: an oversized blazer dress, cropped suit and crazy snakeskin skirt that all looked like they were slightly unfinished, but in reality, took forever to make. And isn’t that the best stuff anyway? The kind that costs, like, $10,000, but looks like you got it in the back of Duane Reade.

 

Calvin Klein

 

 

Oh, Raf. There’s literally nothing he could do at this point that would make us angry, because every collection he sends down the runway is as close to perfect as it gets. After presenting a men’s collection for his namesake label earlier in the week that revolved around Christiane F. and Cookie Mueller’s Drugs, Simons presented a classic Calvin Klein collection that took all of his quirky eccentricities and somehow made them look, well, classic as fuck. I mean, who else could send swimming caps and sweatshirt-less hoodies down the runway, without looking like he’s trying to be avant-garde? No one. And that’s part of his charm. Unlike a lot of of designers who, when they take over a storied brand, start to lose their individual voice, Raf’s seems to get only louder with each season, and we can’t wait to see what happens next.

 

Jeremy Scott

 

 

We have to be honest when we say that we love Moschino, but have never really caught the Jeremy Scott bug. That is, until this season, where Scott went full-on Fifth Element, with futuristic space-inspired looks. For those of you that don’t know, Jean Paul Gaultier did the costumes for The Fifth Element, and it’s basically a 2-hour fashion orgasm. So, when Scott sent Gigi Hadid down the runway in a silver overall dress, pink crop-top and matching pink LeeLoo-inspired wig – well, we almost stood up to give him immediate applause. The rest of the collection was equally amazing, with all of it feeling retro-futuristic without trying too hard. The key was nothing felt too much like a costume, just the uniform for a school in 2064.

 

Honorable Mentions

Telfar

 

 

This was Telfar Clemons’ second collection since winning the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, and though it was impeccable, it was the presentation that really kicked ass. Following the runway show that saw Clemons’ solidify his gender neutral ’70s aesthetic, singer/performer Dev Hynes, rapper Ian Isiah, Kelela, Oyinda, 070 Shake and Kelsey Lu took the stage for an intimate performance. The result was emotional yet understated, just like the collection itself.

 

Gauntlett Cheng

 

 

We’re big fans of Esther Gauntlett and Jenny Cheng’s self-aware brand that makes clothes for cool girls all over the world. This season, the duo went Westminster – or maybe Paris Hilton circa 2002. Either way, we were obsessed with the high fashion pieces they presented on models and a group of pups.

 

All photos courtesy of Vogue Runway

BlackBook Exclusive: Stylist B. Åkerlund Picks Her Faves From Her New IKEA Collection

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In terms of personal style, self-described fashion activist and highly-in-demand stylist B. Åkerlund is surely one of the most singular personages counted amongst the totality of humankind. Somehow gothic and flamboyant at once, austere but also mischievously whimsical, she is a living, breathing clarion call to banish the banality and boringness from our lives. (She’s also married to director Jonas Åkerlund, a gent who knows a thing or two about eradicating dullness.)

Her considerable client list includes the likes of Madonna, Lady Gaga, Beyoncé, Justin Timberlake, H&M and Dior.

The latest to recognize her particular brand of aesthetic magic is IKEA, who recently commissioned her to design a new collection, titled OMEDELBAR (translating to “immediate”) – which will be released into stores this Valentine’s Day. And from black top hats to bright red lip pillows to oversized clocks, it’s sort of like stepping into a T. Rex video base on a Lewis Carroll novel as directed by Tim Burton.

We asked her to pick her five favorite items from OMEDELBAR. We also have a sneak peek at the collection just before its release.

 

 

How would you describe your personal style?

Avantgarde goth punk.

The partnership with IKEA, how did it come about?

They reached out to me based on a Swedish Radio program I participated in, and found my character interesting – the rest is history.

 

 

What were your inspirations in designing the collection?

Me, myself and I…the collection is a dedicated to my ego.

What are a few of your favorite pieces?

They are all my babies. But my favorite pieces are definitely the lip pillow and the top hat.

 

B. Åkerlund’s Five Valentine’s Day Picks From Her IKEA Collection

 

My gold wardrobe rack for clothing, since I am a huge collector and a hoarder. A girl always need more space to organize her stuff.

 

 

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My secret book safe, where I keep all my secrets.

 

 

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My B lamp, that also functions as a great selfie light.

 

 

_____

My oversized clock, so I can keep track of time…

 

 

_____
My B WHO YOU ARE blanket, that turns into a poncho for when I am cold.

 

NYFW: Coach’s Gothic Southwestern Fall 18 Runway Show

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Photography: Courtesy of Coach

 

For their Fall 18 collection, Coach, led by Creative Director Stuart Vevers, fused two very distinct aesthetics into a new kind of visual tone that sticks out as a much different perspective on the current zeitgeist of fashion from other major brands this season.

Those two palettes are gothic and American Southwest, blended together to create a runway show that could have been a parade of the costumes for a new breed of vampire cowboys – and we’re digging it. It’s a distinctly bold offering in a sea of Fashion Week presentations that stuck to the still-going trend of modern athleisure.

Take a look in the following slides.

 

 

Images: Derek Blasberg and Nouvelle Vague Host Le Méridien Fashion Week Fete

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Images by BFA

 

Last night, ceaselessly fabulous musical “interpreters” Nouvelle Vague took to the stage at Air’s Champagne Parlor in the West Village, for a bit of New York Fashion Week ooh la la, courtesy of Le Méridien Hotels.

Hosted by man-about-town Derek Blasberg, also in attendance were supermodel Andreja Pejic and fashion writer Gregory Dellicarpini. The band, known for their sexy, Bossa Nova style covers of new wave classics, played Blondie’s come hither “Call Me,” and, in honor of love’s biggest day of the year, also proffered a version of Richard Rogers’ “My Funny Valentine.”

Nouvelle Vague are actually a regular on the Le Méridien party circuit, having performed at their recent hotel openings in Denver and Shanghai. The brand’s George Fleck enthused, “Both Le Méridien and Nouvelle Vague find shared inspiration in modern classics with a twist.”

This is what it looked like.

 

 

NYFW: Patrick Church Paints Gowns Live in His Fashion Week Performance Art

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Photography: Aaron Hooper

 

Patrick Church’s New York Fashion Week presentation took a more performative approach to showcasing clothing than other shows this season: the artist – whose brand is a blend of design and other mediums of visual art – elected to hand-paint a gown as viewers looked on at his latest collection.

The performance piece was titled “Pour Myself Onto You” and was held at Opening Ceremony in Manhattan. His new work continues his tradition of painting things like faces, bodies, cheeky phrases and sexually suggestive images onto existing clothing like leather jackets, fur coats and lacy dresses.

Take a look at selected images here.

 

Backstage at Prada’s Milan Fall 18 Show

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Photography: Courtesy Prada

 

Prada held their FW 18 show at the Viale Ortles near the Fondazione Prada in Milan this Sunday, and invited four guest designers – Ronan & Erwan Bouroullec, Konstantin Grcic, Herzog & de Meuron and Rem Koolhaas – to contribute one-off pieces. The result is a chic, modern, and mostly minimal collection of men’s and women’s ensembles. There are chunky shoes, banana prints, thick, boldly colored jackets, as well as stark, modern neutrals.

Take a look at the best backstage moments.

 

Backstage at the Colorful Perry Ellis Fall 18 Show

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Photography: Jonathan Hokklo

 

Perry Ellis’ Fall/Winter 18 presentation at New York Fashion Week took place in the Hippodrome NYC, once the site of a circus – fitting, as the collection reflected an exploration in colorful patterns and whimsical palettes. Creative Director Michael Maccari went for a wearable, comfortable, forward-thinking vibe, and employed high-profile models for the runway including current Drag Race star Milk (Daniel Donigan).

The show heralded Perry Ellis’ new campaign, Life Ready Since 1976, harkening back to the label’s mission statement of anywhere dressing.

Celebrity guests in attendance included 21 Savage, Marc E. Bassy, Danell Leyva, Elijah Boothe and Steven Kolb. Take a look at backstage photography in the following slides.

 

 

Kanye West Dressed Social Media Stars (& Paris Hilton) As Kim For Yeezy Season 6

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Photo: @clermonttwins on Instagram

 

Yeezy season 6 is here, and for the new campaign Kanye has enlisted the help of social media titans, not least of which was Paris Hilton, to pose for the shots.

Instead of opting for a studio portrait shoot, West dressed up the influencers to look like Kim Kardashian and mimic paparazzi shots, giving everyone a waist-length platinum blonde wig and Yeezy outfits (or lack thereof) that Kim herself has worn in the past.

Instagram heavyweights included Chinqpink, Babymeia, Balencizara, Yovanna Ventura, the Clermont twins, Jordyn Woods, Sami Miro, and Lela Star. The collection of identically-wigged women lends the campaign a creepy, plastic feel that adds an edge to his minimalist line of athleisurewear. Take a look at some of our favorite shots below.

First off, here’s Paris.

 

#YeezySeason6 #ParisHilton #ForeverTheOG YEEZYSUPPLY.COM

A post shared by Kim Kardashian West (@kimkardashian) on

 

Now here’s the Clermont twins – our personal favorite shots, because it looks like there’s an army of clones walking Los Angeles, except like a Kardashian instead of Storm Troopers.

 

#YEEZYSEASON6

A post shared by Shannon and Shannade Clermont (@clermonttwins) on

#YEEZYSEASON6

A post shared by Shannon and Shannade Clermont (@clermonttwins) on

 

And here’s Chinqpink.

 

#YEEZYSEASON6

A post shared by chinqpink (@chinqpink) on

Dior Homme’s Fall 18 Show Brought Back ’90s Male Supermodels

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All Photography: Hunter Abrams

For their Fall 18 menswear collection, Dior Homme tapped into the raging nostalgia for the ’90s that has dominated fashion as of late – in this case by casting some of that decade’s biggest male supermodels for their catwalk. Similar to Versace’s showstopping reunion of Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Helena Christensen, Carla Bruni and Claudia Schiffer, Dior’s Kris Van Assche tapped the talents of Cameron Alborzian, who not only dominated campaigns throughout the decade, but also starred in Madonna’s “Express Yourself” video. In addition, Van Assche hired Mark Vanderloo, Alain Gossuin, Arnaud Lemaire and James Rousseau, all fashion mainstays throughout the ’90s and ’00s.

The collection itself showed classic silhouettes and suiting updated with colorful furs, whimsical prints, and cheeky tee shirts. Take a look.