Named for Swedish word meaning growth from the ashes, intimate spot rises up with Frej chef Fredrik Berselius. Scandi tasting menu runs Sunday through Thursday, shifting with the seasons. Ambitious array will give you plenty to talk about. Cured lamb heart with salsify and lichen; trotters and shank with sunchoke and cider. Bar menu for Friday/Saturday and for the folks in the lounge, who are also enjoying house vermouth and beer cocktails. Double dining rooms decked with art.

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