Showing today to cap off NYFW were Ralph Lauren, Francisco Costa at Calvin Klein, (who celebrated ten years with the brand,) and Marc Jacobs, whose surf-apocalypse show rounded up the collections with a literal and figurative bang as a thunderous downpour made waves outside.
The set inside at Marc Jacobs had a troubled weather feel as well. Broken down structures were strewn in trash-sprinkled sand, and given the pirate/beach-bound army of models, we could have been at the new beach, once inland, caused by apocalyptic global warming. Board shorts and beach bound florals were paired with highly structured epaulet-ed jacket that sported tassels and other embellishments with a military feel. Decorated evening dresses, reminiscent of wetsuits, closed out the show. Surfer dude haircuts and practical shoes – sandals or boots, depending – mixed together with the clothes to form Marc Jacobs’ pirate brigade, a coastal surfing army for impending troubled times.
Ralph Lauren did a mod, ’60s thing, primarily showing clothes in black and white. Brightly hued dresses made their way down the latter half of the runway – the colors were a little intense, and it’s hard to imagine wanting to be those shades of orange or green head to toe. A few checked numbers melded better with the other collections shown so far this season – those plaids, ginghams, and checks will be a trend for spring.
Calvin Klein – so good at minimalism – found a way to create extra beauty in the details while maintaining the core of its aesthetic. Simple shapes in black, white, and soft colors, offered the backdrop to showcase unfinished seams, laser cut lace, and perforated snakeskin details. Elegant, simple, and still interesting.
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