Insta-Critic: Everything you missed from #PFWeekend

The weekend lineup at Paris Fashion Week was filled with shows that veered on the side of statement-making drama–the kind of shows that provide ample fodder for Instagram. On the quieter side of things, some of Paris’s hippest labels–Kenzo, Celine, and Chloe, to name a few–showed collections that subtly evolved their brands while staying true to their cool-girl roots. See the full roundup below!

Junya Watanabe played with dressing in three dimensions. The show featured graphic skirts, done in rigid pleats and topped with fantastical honeycomb hats.

#paris #pfw #junyawatanabe #show #fw15 Details from the show JUNYA WATANABE

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Hat head at Watanabe

This season Haider Ackermann sent out a more boyishly tailored, less romantic collection. Done in dark prints, the fitted jackets in tweeds and velvets displayed masterful pattern-mixing.

Great mix of patterns #haiderackerman #parisfashion A photo posted by @janeantonacci (@jnantonacci) on

Mixing prints at Haider Ackerman

Vivienne Westwood stayed true to her Brit-punk sensibilities and sent out a collection of perfectly off-kilter clothes, featuring ball gowns for the boys and pant suits for the girls. Completing the runway’s unruly party theme? The German band Die Hartjungs performed live.

Westwood’s wild party dress

Comme des Garcons showed an (unsurprisingly) avant-garde collection this season, delivering white lace and cotton confections fit for royalty and styled with the dark lace veils.

On the runway at #CommedesGarcons. #PFW A photo posted by WWD (@wwd) on

Hyperbolic dressing at Comme Des Garcons

Acne presented a collection worthy of wardrobe envy, featuring high-waisted pants, patch pockets, and plenty of tweed. If the clothes weren’t enough, there are always the coveted Acne accessories: this season the sculptural, high-heeled ankle boot is the one to get.

Acne gets eclectic

Olympia le Tan‘s collection was fit for a prima ballerina who likes to party on the weekends. Those sweet touches of hand-illustrated scrollwork were drawn by the designer’s Dad.

Hand-drawn designs at Olympia Le Tan

Kenzo has sportiness in its DNA, but this weekend the label notorious for sending out statement patterns went for a more refined approach of piling up long, contrasting layers in surprising satin finishes.

Kenzo’s dark drapey looks for fall

True to form, Celine sent out cool, modern clothes women want to wear, but this season, the typically minimalist label got a bit cheeky with tighter bodices and a woodland animal motif.

The bags were big at #Celine #PFW A photo posted by WWD (@wwd) on

The bags at Celine

As Lorde, Kelly Rowland, and Poppy Delevingne looked on from the front row, this season’s Chloe girl embraced a take-charge aesthetic. Still, the relaxed 70s mood that prevails at the brand was still present: slouchy wide-leg pants and plenty of fringe kept things floaty.

I am feeling all sorts of understood at Chloe

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Chloe does fringe for fall

Insta-Critic: Extreme Skirts at Yohji Yamamoto

Today in Paris, Yohji Yamamoto showed a collection of dramatic poof skirts and ball gowns the city of lights won’t soon forget. Their massive scale required scaffolding so involved that even the final designs felt like works-in-progress. Given the exposed underpinnings here, the studied polish of those jauntily perched fedoras made for a delicious bit of styling irony. Is it wearable? Not if you have a doorway to walk through. But as far as instagram-worthy runway moments go, the master of avant-garde tailoring is very hard to beat.

#yamamoto

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Skirt drama at Yamamoto

 

 

A #pfw runway like no other

#yohjiyamamoto #pfw

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Corsetry and chaos

 

パリコレ。Yohji Yamamoto。感動。 #hotei #paris #pariscollection #yohjiyamamoto #fashion #fashionweek

A photo posted by HOTEI Official (@hotei_official) on

 

A cape coat amidst the runway turbulence

Insta-Critic: Channeling the 1950s at Balenciaga, Alexander Wang-Style

Against a carpet of black-and-white window pane checks, Alexander Wang sent out clothes that married Balenciaga’s rigorous penchant for form with his own downtown sensibilities. From a distance, there was a Hitchcock-heroine elegance: varsity letter sweaters, tweed pencil skirts, sleek updos, and leather gloves harkened back to a decidedly prim vision of the 1950s. But a closer look revealed the street elements close to Wang’s heart were there in the details. There was a touch of tough-girl menace in the styling: punky pearl cuffs climbed the ears and leather buckles served as collars and straps.

On the runway at #Balenciaga. #PFW

A photo posted by WWD (@wwd) on

A car coat gets a bold update

So glad sideburns are a thing at Balenciaga. I’ve got plenty of fodder for those. A photo posted by Man Repeller (@manrepeller) on

The bold beauty look at Balenciaga

Window pane redux at @balenciaga. -@tomokoogura #PFW #FW15 #BNYfieldnotes

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A new take on classic Balenciaga cuts and patterns

Lady Gaga at Balenciaga

Detalles en la colección #FW15 de @Balenciaga, presentada hoy durante #PFW. #Balenciaga

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Punk is in the details

Insta-Critic: Cocoon Coats at Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake takes what seems rigid and structured and makes it soft and buoyant. For Fall 2015, fractal patterns on parkas and pants formed flower-like pinwheel patterns, while the classic silhouette of 1950s skirt suits got puffed-up to exaggerated proportions. The finale featured models twirling in brilliantly-colored, floor-grazing skirts: after all those wintery cocoons, Miyake seemed to suggest, a little butterfly-inspired dressing is the next logical step.

#IsseyMiyake Fall Winter 2015 #PFW #ParisFashionWeek

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Pattern pairing at Issey Miyake

Today’s #IsseyMiyake #AW15 show at #PFW #FCatPFW #parisfashionweek A photo posted by fashionchanneltv (@fashionchanneltv) on

Blankets of color

Bold colors to brighten up winter

Issey Miyake A/W 2015 paris #Isseymiyake#AW2015#paris#fashionweek

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A kaleidoscope of twirling skirts close out the show

Insta-Critic: Loewe’s Chic 80s Revival

On instagram, Loewe announced that today’s presentation had a future-oriented “science-inspired aesthetic.” And while, yes, those over-sized sunglasses could pass as lab goggles, there was also a heavy dose of the eighties on the runway. Designer Jonathan Anderson sent out bold geometric prints, pleats, and plenty of lamé. Despite the attention-grabbing pops of color in the clothes, accessories still rule at the house of Loewe: all eyes were firmly fixed on those drop-dead gorgeous bags.

El #beautylook final para la pasarela #FW15 de @loewe, presentada hoy durante #PFW. Vía @jw_anderson. #Loewe

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Sunglasses as statement piece

Bold geometries at Loewe

#loewe

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Loewe demonstrates the importance of a good accessory

Future dressing in metallics for day

Insta-Critic: Rick Owens Gets Glam with Gold Details

Leave it to the avant-garde sensibilities of Rick Owens to soften and shape all the heavy metal that have been showing up on the Paris runways this week. Against an austere concrete backdrop in the Palais de Tokyo, Owens sent out models masked with fine films of gold leaf. (Literal Insta-gold). Metal as a second skin turned up on drape-y tunics detailed with subtle gold or leather inlays. Paired with knee-high gladiator sandals or buckled-up boots, the clothes had the feel of softly-sculptured armor.

The beautiful, golden Martyna backstage at Rick Owens – @farankrentcil

A photo posted by Elle Magazine (@elleusa) on

Gold-leaf gets extreme

Care to enroll in the #RickOwens army? #TCfrontrow #FW15 #PFW A photo posted by thecorner.com (@thecornerdotcom) on

The Rick Owens army storms the runway

Flashes of gold turned up on the clothes as well

#RickOwens does glitter. #PFW A photo posted by WWD (@wwd) on

Unexpected touches of glitter and fringe at Rick Owens

#RICKOWENS #pfw

A photo posted by @adfkeith on

Walking sculptures

Insta-Critic: Dark Leather Dressing at Ann Demeulemeester

Ann Demeulemeester reliably turns out dark designs. And, even though the label tends to eschew trends, this season the Antwerp brand was in step with what we’re seeing on other runways. Demeulemeester gave us a healthy dose of gender-bending: pinstripe suits referenced menswear with a touch of carnival-like excess, while waists cinched with lashings of black leather suggested a new take on corsetry. Dark and gothic? Maybe. But also some of the best leather pieces we’ve seen.

Ann Demeulemeester FW’15

A photo posted by eletrikhman (@eletrikhman) on


Leather ties were big on the runway


A menswear moment backstage


Corset-like accessories


Pinstripes, reimagined

Insta-Critic: Dresses Fit for a Victorian Jungle at Vionnet

One Instagrammer called the models walking under Vionnet’s lush arbor of greenery “garden goddesses,” but with all the coordinating luggage rolling behind them we think creative director Goga Ashkenazi had a slightly less domestic destination in mind. Vionnet’s tropical set at the Centre Pompidou conjured up exotic visions of a jungle jaunt fit for Victorian ladies in search of some adventure. All those austere high-necked collars, and long, fluid skirts felt fresh thanks to transparent fabrics that could easily double as ultra chic mosquito netting in a pinch.

Transparencias y detalles femeninos en la colección #FW15 de @vionnet_paris, presentada hoy durante #PFW. Vía @brendlv. #Vionnet

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Transparency-play at Vionnet

Rollies on the runway at #Vionnet. #PFW

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Rolling suitcases hit the runway

@vionnet_paris show. Photo by @maximsap #vionnet #pfw

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The high-collar gets a playful update

That’s how we travel too! @vionnet_paris report live by @nichapats

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Making suitcases a much cooler affair

Insta-Critic: Pared-Down Librarian Chic at Lemaire

Just yesterday it was announced that Lemaire will bring their refined style to Japanese über-retailer Uniqlo this fall. The pared-down aesthetic Lemaire designers Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran are known for was seen on the runway today in a collection high on the art of low-key luxe. France’s national “bibliothèque” set the stage for a muted, minimalist take on the season’s librarian-chic trend. Among the runway favorites? Long cape-like coats that betrayed their everyday practicality: those sliced-open sides will make for easy pocket access.

Final look @christophe_lemaire #lemaire #wantallthecoats – @leahchernikoff #pfw

A photo posted by Elle Magazine (@elleusa) on

Lust-worthy coats

Cape-dressing at Lemaire

Lemaire makes the case for minimalist outerwear

Beautiful show this morning from Lemaire | AW15 women’s collection #pfw A photo posted by smith_wykes (@smith_wykes) on

The leather belt, a favorite accessory of the season