Almost every magazine has published (at least) one article promising to reveal the secrets of “French-girl style”—and they all, inevitably, get it wrong. Simply outfitting oneself in a striped tee and crimson lip gloss won’t instantly result in the je ne se quoi that so many French women effortlessly exude.
While the answers to Paris’ sartorial mysteries may remain locked in a vault several meters beneath the Louvre (or perhaps the former Colette flagship space), one simple garment—the agnès b. Snap Cardigan—has proved to be more art-worthy than the simple French wardrobe inspiration.
Image by Ed Templeton
Now, in an ode to the 40th anniversary this timeless garment, more than 70 luminaries in art, film, and photography have come together to offer their interpretation of said garment. The exhibit, pithily titled Photographers … Artists and the Snap Cardigan, features contributions by cultural luminaries such as Juergen Teller, David Lynch, Ryan McGinness, Jim Jarmusch and Carly Steinbrunn. This show echoes previous snap cardigan exhibitions at the Galerie du Jour in Paris in 1986, and at the Centre Pompidou in 1996.
“I had the idea for the exhibition when I saw people making the garment their own,” agnès b. herself explains, “adapting it to their personal style. It occurred to me that photographers are never given the same subject, and that they would each have their own vision of the [Snap Cardigan]. Their response was enthusiastic, and the result is beautiful. I am extremely grateful.”
Fashion has long been rightly criticized for perpetuating narrow beauty ideals—though in response, encouragingly, we’ve seen an increasingly more inclusive approach being taken both on the runway and in advertising campaigns. And in an ode to the glories of individuality, Ferragamo has tapped beautifully into the diversity zeitgeist with its stunningly shot Spring/Summer 2020 campaign.
Under the watchful eye of newly installed, Berkshire born Creative Director Paul Andrew (his dad, btw, was a royal upholsterer to Windsor Castle), photographer Harley Weir captured the wild freedom of unfettered self-expression against the sun-drenched hues of an unidentified—to us at least—desert landscape.
“We showed this collection outdoors in Milan last September,” Andrew recalls, “as a way to emphasize that these are clothes designed to be worn for pleasure, during the summer, and with friends.”
And indeed, models Malgosia Bela, Abby Champion, Sora Choi, Alpha Dia and David Kammenos do seem to be genuinely chumming it up, as Weir snaps them strikingly against the dusty landscape.
Andrew continues, “We used the campaign to highlight certain items, including the new Viva pump and some of the gorgeous hand-kit crochet work—as complements to a summer spent roaming free in the company of people you love.”
While your summer may actually involve more time spent in an overly-air conditioned office than throwing shapes against enigmatic rock formations (with a coterie of astonishingly good-looking friends), you may just find the campaign’s evocative images whisking you away to there…even if just for a few blissfully delicious moments.
Although winter’s chill is just beginning to descend upon New York (and Paris), the Dior Spring/Summer 2020 Ready-To-Wear advertising campaign is already in full bloom. Artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri (a creative juggernaut since taking the reins at the French fashion house) once again partnered with acclaimed fashion photographer Brigitte Niedermair—who was honored in 2019 with a solo exhibition at the Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo, as part of the Venice Biennale—to showcase the somewhat “sylvan” collection.
Niedermair’s images vividly highlight the collection’s rich textures, lush floral embroidery, and precious accessories, that pop when against a botanically patterned grey background.
And perfectly cast, gamine model Ruth Bell captivatingly conjures the whimsically sexy spirit of Audrey Hepburn, a la Funny Face, in a raffia bucket hat and oversized sunglasses. Ladylike floral embroidery is contrasted with punk-inspired lug-sole boots (which we predict will easily make our 2020 top ten fashion items), capturing that ever rebellious couture spirit of Dior.
We somehow managed to survive yet another two month stretch of pumpkin spice everything (we swear, we even smelled it on a cat sweater), and are now gleefully taking in the pleasures of everything being scented with gingerbread and balsam – a particular sort of happy place for us.
But now comes word that our friends at Fendi will be dazzling us with the introduction of a new…wait for it…scented leather Baguette bag. A playful collaboration with venerable parfumeur Maison Francis Kurkdjian, the FENDIFRENESIA Baguette ensures that even if you forgot to spritz a little behind the ears in the morning, you’ll walk the city streets confident of your considerable olfactory appeal.
The FENDIFRENESIA scent itself (a 4ml sample is included with purchase) is characterized by leathery / musky notes which emphasize the textural qualities of the Selleria leather from which the bag is made. But this is certainly not just some fancy scratch and sniff – the scent is applied in a way to last up to four years on each bag. At which time they are guaranteed to still be in fashion.
The bags will debut the evening of December 4 at Fendi’s Miami Design District boutique, as part of Design Miami – though you can be pretty sure a few will also be spotted around Art Basel. As well, Christelle Boulé’s photographs of the fragrance being dropped onto colored film paper will give the opening event a frisson of cultural gravitas.
FENDIFRENESIA Baguette will be available only at the Miami shop as of December 5, while the nano baguette is available now at Fendi.com.
It may be getting dark too early, and gloomy days have seemed particularly gloomy – but inside the new Missoni Madison Avenue flagship, it’s perpetually springtime. The new 4,000 square foot boutique artfully showcases the exalted Italian fashion house’s women’s, men’s, beach and home collections in a luminous environment, with lots of serenity-inducing color schemes.
Outfitted in the brand’s iconic Chevron pattern and powdery pastel hues, the eclectic interiors were jointly envisioned by Missoni Creative Director Angela Missoni and Spanish architect Patricia Urquiola.
The collaboration resulted in a space that both channels the brand’s luxe bohemian DNA and embraces Missoni’s dedication to sustainability. Indeed, crafted from recycled materials, the textured resin walls and eco-friendly Silipol flooring were customized to create a worn vintage effect.
Elsewhere, warm rose-and-bronze tinted mirrors, lacquered metals, and shimmering metallic paints amplify the feeling of space and evoke the glow of a Mediterranean sunset. Perfect then, for a respite from all that stressful, snowy holiday shopping just beyond the front door.
The new Missoni flagship boutique is located at 676 Madison Avenue – just around the corner from The Plaza.
Along with a new actress playing the role of Elizabeth II – we bow to you, Olivia Coleman – a different composer has also taken the, ahem, reigns for Season 3 of Netflix’s critically acclaimed and generally edge-of-seat period drama The Crown. Award-winning virtuoso Martin Phipps (Black Mirror, Peaky Blinders), replaces Rupert Gregson’s previously lush orchestral scores with a darkly haunting soundtrack solidly anchored in emotional depth-plumbing and atmospheric gravitas.
Phipps collaborated with director Peter Morgan to incisively connect the score to the show’s gripping ongoing narrative, placing his focus on the visceral complexity of each of the historical characters – most poignantly, HRH herself.
The soundtrack’s minimal, singular sonics powerfully emphasize the weight the monarchy must carry alongside their ability – or, rather, inability – to cope with their own personal demons. The music is especially stirring and evocative during Episode 3, which recalls the Welsh mining disaster which killed more then a hundred small children.
From the darkly moody “Black Widow” to the eerily beautiful “Aberfan,” the skillfully constructed 16-track score (released via Sony Music Masterworks) evokes the turbulence of both the times and inner lives of the Windsor family, while remaining eminently listenable on its own.
“The genius of The Crown is its ability to find the human stories inside the heightened world of the monarchy,” Phipps enthuses. “In Season 3 we tried to connect the score less with the grandeur and pomp of our character’s surroundings, and more with the emotion of their personal journeys. I hope we feel the suppressed power of the establishment lurking beneath these more personal melodies.”
Long before Bowie’s futuristic alter ego Ziggy Stardust fell to earth in his glittering, striped jumpsuit, exalted designer Pierre Cardin was imagining an otherworldly sartorial future. While beloved amongst fashionistas for his space age designs and gender-bending approach to style, Cardin is perhaps best known for his infamous licensing deals (something that hadn’t really been done before the 1960s), that lent his signature to everything from sheets to sunglasses, amassing him a fortune in the process.
Beyond his immediately recognizable logo, though, few know much about the man or the contributions the 97-year-old icon has made to art and culture.
Most thrillingly then, a new film, House of Cardin, offers a rare peek into Cardin as the genius and visionary he genuinely was (and is). The authorized feature documentary by P. David Ebersole and Todd Hughes chronicles his life and illustrious career through archival footage, and interviews with cross cultural luminaries such as Jean Paul Gaultier and Philippe Starck, as well as muses Naomi Campbell and Sharon Stone. There are also fascinating conversations with Pierre himself.
The first public trailer has just been released, and in it we are transported back to his extravagant fashion shows, including a breathtaking spectacle at the Great Wall of China. Campbell, Stone and supermodel Jenny Shimizu all express their earnest admiration (“He was the first designer to get into diversity,” observes the latter), while design legend Starck perhaps most perfectly sums up Cardin’s legacy: “He’s not of the modern style; he’s modern. He has a modern way of thinking.”
House of Cardin received a standing ovation at its Venice Film Festival premiere, and will open in New York on November 9th at the SVA Theater, 333 West 23rd Street, as part of DOC NYC.
Arguably the unofficial international figurehead of the “New Nordic Movement” (traceable back to the early oughts, when the opening of the Øresund Bridge connected Sweden and Denmark, and made anything seem possible), Henrik Vibskov represents perhaps one of the last of a generation of “rock star” designers.
After graduating from London’s Central Saint Martin’s in 2001, the provocative Dane’s eponymous fashion label rejected Scandinavian minimalism for a more theatrical, colorful bohemian aesthetic – yet with a distinct attention to tailoring and craftsmanship. After producing his infamous The Big Wet Shiny Boobies Collection, he opened his first Copenhagen shop in 2006 – before also taking up in New York’s Soho in 2011.
Now, just in time for holiday shopping for your most flamboyantly fashionable friends, the new Henrik Vibskov flagship has opened in the Danish capital, along the buzzing Gammel Mønt. The clean lined, cavernous space was designed by Clover Studio (a London and Copenhagen based concern), and its defining feature is a series of red roping, fastened to tabletops above and below, creating something of a stalactite/stalagmite effect. Large arched windows take in the graceful historic architecture of the surrounding neighborhood.
Stocked are the full range of uniquely stylish offerings, including shoes, sneakers and accessories.
Ever the thoughtful provocateur (as well as artist, film director and musician), Vibskov’s most recent, Spring 2020 collection was titled “Stuck Under the Surface,” a commentary on human stagnation and entropy. Which, considering this dazzling new flagship boutique, he is in absolutely no danger of being guilty of.
Just in time to adorn that fashionable Halloween costume, the exalted house of Fendi has resurrected the spirit of the late Karl Lagerfeld in its latest handbag, the Karligraphy. The elegant, square-shaped crossbody bag features Lagerfeld’s italic “F” monogram, which he designed in the early ‘80s as an alternative to Fendi’s traditional blocky logo.
Naturally, it comes in colours, like the Lagerfeld-approved sleek black and patent leather, exotic skins, or primary shades of red, yellow, or blue (clearly, Choupette’s favorite).
The Karligraphy bag is available in Fendi boutiques and on Fendi.com.