A Brand New Chef’s Table From EN’s Abe Hiroki

Chefs, like caged birds, yearn to breathe free. 

Thus, the proliferation of chef’s tables, those restaurant-in-restaurants where chefs can let their inner auteur free. The latest example of this is Abe Hiroki’s once-a-month chef’s table, "8 Guests, a Counter and chef Abe Hiroki" at EN Brasserie in New York’s West Village.

The night is as it sounds. Dishes come fast and furious and showcase Hiroki’s imagination: Edamame Milk Soup with Black Truffle, Trout Tataki, Sweet Corn Chawanmushi, which is the most delicious corn pudding you’ll ever eat. All this is prepared effectively at the table, by chef Hiroki, his head perpetually bent over his cutting board. The other patrons discretely gawked and murmured.

The night ends, after ample unpasteurized sake and a strawberry panna cotta. Come for the Chawanmushi and intimacy. Stay for the jealous looks.


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