Paris Fashion Week: What Happened to Saint Laurent Menswear?

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Pictured: YSL Spring ’17, Illustrated by Hilton Dresden

Later today, Anthony Vaccarello will present his Women’s Ready-To-Wear collection in Paris. According to T Magazine, the newly appointed designer will present his first set of men’s looks—apart from a single model in sheer blouse and trousers shown at his debut in September. Following Hedi Slimane’s departure in April, the slot usually reserved for Saint Laurent menswear has remained vacant for two seasons. A curious choice, given that menswear was one of the fastest growing sectors in the business.

Although Kering does not release a break down by gender, under Slimane the brand saw double-digit growth for consecutive quarters. With the men in leather jackets and jhodpur boots flooding the streets, and the recent boost in men’s sales across the luxury spectrum, it’s clear that the male market cannot be ignored.

Unlike Slimane, who has had a devout men’s following since his days at Dior Homme, Vaccarello has limited experience in menswear—his eponymous line was exclusively women’s. While he did dabble with men’s designs while at Versus Versace, he is primarily interested in womenswear. According to multiple sources, even with the brief display of menswear set to be unveiled later today, Vaccarello is relatively uninvolved in the men’s side of the business at Saint Laurent.

Indeed, the two seasons since his appointment have been stocked with staid Slimane era re-issues. With a rabid male fan base and a burgeoning men’s designer market, will Saint Laurent let the men’s line fall behind? Or, rather, like some have suggested, bring in a dedicated men’s designer to reinvigorate the slick rocker chic look Slimane ushered in? Only time will tell. However, today’s presentation will be a strong indicator of what is to come.

Anthony Vaccarrello Continues to Sex Up Saint Laurent in New Campaign

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Photography by Collier Schorr

Since taking over for Hedi Slimane as Creative Director of Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello has breathed new life into the iconic brand with deconstructed, highly-sexualized runway shows exploring cut, silhouette, and texture. Today, he continues his electrification of the brand with a new campaign featuring superstar models including Yasmin Wijnaldum, Freja Beha Erischen, Binx Walton and Lexi Boling.

Check out the campaign below.

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The provocative new ad series is shot by Collier Schorr and represents a continuation of Vaccarello’s raw new aesthetic take on Saint Laurent. He’s only been in charge of the historic house for a season, but is already setting himself apart from his predecessors, who include such fashion legends as Tom Ford and Alber Elbaz. He recently featured trap star Travi$ Scott in a campaign video as well.

Insta-Critic: The Punk LBD at Anthony Vaccarello

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Anthony Vaccarello kicked off Paris Fashion Week with a show that revolved around the little black dress. From there he put his edgy-sexy spin on things: Vaccarello’s signature asymmetric hemlines and thigh-high slits lent tailored precision to grommet- and stud-encrusted leather jackets and dresses. With a hint of graphic eyeliner, the (literally) star-studded look became an elegant twist on punk.

Star struck @anthony_vaccarello

A photo posted by Susie Lau (@susiebubble) on

A perfectly sliced LBD at Vaccarello

 

@karliekloss hits the runway for @anthony_vaccarello. Let the #PFW games begin!

A photo posted by V Magazine (@vmagazine) on

 

KK takes to the runway

Finale en la pasarela #FW15 de @anthony_vaccarello, presentada hoy durante #PFW. Vía @brendlv. #AnthonyVaccarello

A photo posted by Harper’s Bazaar en Español (@harpersbazaarmx) on

Metallic fringe lent precision detailing to dresses

 

Done

A photo posted by Anthony Vaccarello (@anthony_vaccarello) on

 

Backstage postshow