Fendi SS15 illustrated by Joseph Larkowsky
Fashion month is nearly winding down… We’re onto Paris, but during Milan, the Italian fashion capital kicked things into swing with Gucci and Fendi. After the Karl Lagerfeld headed Fendi, famed for its furry goodies, (and after I looked through the crafted leather and denim jodhpurs and the smallest embellished bags I’ve ever clapped eyes on,) I realized that behind the pretty pastel organza and printed orchid culottes, there was an underlying edge of rebel teens, ready to light up a cigarette behind the bike sheds or sit at the back of the bus and intimidate the new kids. The more you stare at the shredded leather jackets, you realize it’s not a degradé fade, it’s a bold stroke of black spray-paint, or the metallic gladiator sandals, reminiscent of the gaggles of girls in London’s East End.
This isn’t something just seen at Fendi. Marc Jacobs closed NYFW with a parade of military women, each of their looks becoming more adorned with cabochons, luxe materials and couture silhouettes. Selection of patch worked looks bandies together from swatches of fabric in oversized military jackets and nurses uniforms enforcing the idea of rebelling against the regime. Although it’s the spring season, there is something very dark and broody about the collections we have seen.
Back in Milan, Roberto Cavalli produced denim jackets, slit and slashed, worn and fading to reveal a punky, sequin covered second skin. Could the new trend for spring 2015 be “unleash your inner rebel,” or are these girls just pseudo rebels? Is the spray painting, the secret embellishments and the anti-normcore idea of it all a little too… twee in itself?
Donatella went full out punk a few seasons back, all PVC and spiked chokers. This season she did something we never would imagine, sports (or at least, Donatella’s version of ‘sports’). Underwear waistbands on slit skirts and a million miles of Swarovski-adorned fabric later, you have to wonder if Donatella has rebelled against her own aesthetic. Does the Versace customer want a pair of Medusa head track pants, or do they prefer the snake-headed dominatrix where she is normally seen, on crotch grazing mini-dresses? (There were still some of those, to be fair. The world hasn’t gone mad).
I can see how the idea of undercover rebels could be alluring to some. The Park Avenue Princess convincing her mother to buy her the Ralph Lauren black organza shirt, not letting it slip that the leather ties really do completely unlace…
But who am I to judge rebels? Anna Wintour just answered Vogue’s now infamous “73 Questions” in which she stated she hates seeing “all black’. I’m comfortable enough rebelling against Anna by continuing to wear the same black uniform I have for several years, but who knows, maybe next season I’ll pull a Karl at Fendi and spray-paint myself for the gods.