This ultra-patriotic Nolita deli denies entry to San Marzano tomatoes, stocking only Italian-American mozz and evoo. Iowa’s La Quercia prosciutto gets piled high on Parisi bakery rolls. Sit-down dinner service is five courses from the Café Boulud and A Voce-trained owners. Nightly rotating menu of antipasti, pasta, and secondi, supersized with an ices and a pastry round. All-American vino list definitely does not still live with mamma.