Alto, Convivio, and Marea were built to breathe rarified air, but Michael White’s return to downtown is for the civilians. As an osteria, all about the rustic look, welcoming vibe, and comfort food cooking. Emilia-Romagna is the region, played out in traditional ragus, grilled meats, and a little romagnolo fry bread. Brick oven starts up early: nothing says breakfast like chard, eggs, and braised pigs’ feet. Black and white pics, copper pots, lots of wood all keep things warm. Long marble bar for supping with a glass of good Italian, poured straight from the tap.