Should be called Great. Simple décor, blond wood and light floral touches. Cuisine is creative comfort food, i.e. pulled pork and sage grits, molasses tuna, veal-ricotta meatballs. Brunch draws a mad crowd, with fresh baked goods and strange egg concoctions. Chef Steven Picker hand rolls orange sour cream doughnuts that are rock ‘n’ roll to Krispy Kreme’s elevator music.