Boutiquey reno of New York classic makes for the most mod lodgings on the UWS. Furnishings tend to the dark and sexy. Sleek lobby lounge and second-floor Chowder House are modestly sized but well turned out. Rooms keep to the cool side of opulence; some are wee indeed, but corner suites are knockouts. Rooftop bar with neon sign a neighborhood cynosure.