Photos via bon.se
During the early to late ’80s, the British underground experienced a golden age of indie guitar culture, combining ’60s garage-rock with ’70s punk for an iconic period in music that Scottish band The Jesus and Mary Chain famously spearheaded. “It was perfect timing because there weren’t any guitar bands at this time,” member William Reid said about the era. “Everybody was making this electronic pop music.”
For Swedish-based WHYRED Designer Jonas Bladmo, this distant chapter was “punk’s last gasp,” which informed the direction for his fall ’16 menswear collection called, “A Scene In-Between.” Bladmo unveiled his latest yesterday in Stockholm’s intimate Restaurang Riche bar, providing a fitting low-key backdrop for this nostalgic narrative to unfold within. The contrived gloss of a more polished fashion week environment would’ve competed with the clothes.
Models all emerged from a backroom, most of which were pale with bony rockstar limbs and bags beneath their noticeably droopy eyes. They formed a DIY catwalk that flanked the bar counter—a place much of that old UK guitar scene likely spent long nights chugging beers together and scribbling lyrics onto napkins. The presentation’s thrashing soundtrack was hiked to an ear-bleeding volume, as a disco ball spun from the ceiling and a wall projection read, “ANXIETY,” in all caps.
The look for WHYRED’s presentation was a marriage of tailored classics with more free-spirited styling—an alt-attitude that’s been readily explored by Saint Laurent Creative Director Hedi Slimane in recent seasons. Bladmo certainly wasn’t reinventing the wheel this season, but he did create a successful lineup that told a cohesive story and made the models look undeniably cool.
Tailored topcoats were worn over printed button-ups with cropped cigarette pants, fitted leather jackets complemented scruffy Harris Tweeds and slim jackets with satin lapels and graphic pins offered smart, sexy options for a casual cocktail hour. The show was altogether classic with subtle threads of subversion throughout—vintage with an approachable, relevant edge.