On Saturday night, Raf Simons presented a 15th-anniversary collection that garnered roaring cheers from the usually jaded fashion crowd. In it, the designer paid tribute to Martin Margiela’s iconic 1990 white collection. It was a show that sealed his fate in fashion history, a collection that cemented his decision to design clothing instead of pursuing a career in industrial design, his original intention. And what a show it was.
What makes Raf such an amazing designer is that he presents new ideas that lead us to question conventional notions about the way we define ourselves. Ideas about male sensuality and the human form were reflected in clothing that explored new silhouettes, from oversized pants layered under skirts to knit sweaters and tight-fitting tanks with large zippers up the back that exposed or highlighted the model’s necks and backs—unlikely erogenous zones—but also created versatility in the way you could wear these garments.
Baggie and zipped up the back at Raf Simons.
There were clinical references too, a trend that has been explored throughout the season. Lots of whites and scrub-like pieces were presented amongst a vivid array of colors: fuchsia, seafoam green, and indigo all had their moments in this brilliant showing. And while it’s hard to imagine these looks entering your average man’s wardrobe in their entirety, it’s nice to know someone is thinking outside the box.