Anna Sui’s Fall 2011 runway show at Lincoln Center Wednesday evening took its cues from colorful cultures and daring eras, making for a lively and feminine vibe. Last month, during a panel held in her honor at The Metropolitan Museum, Sui said she was inspired by “an amazing exhibition in London about Diaghilev and the Ballet Russes.” She also spoke about her mood board: “There [are] lots of pictures of Ballet Russes costumes, lots of Léon Bakst drawings. There’s a mixture of Mod too. I’m trying to overlap it. Hopefully the collection will capture that.” For her presentation, Sui also referenced dandyism and romantic dress, feathers and velvet.
While there were no feathers to be found at yesterday’s presentation, there was burnout velvet and nods to mod, as well as Art Deco and Art Nouveau flourishes. A favorite was a jade Deco butterfly-print crepe tunic, with tights to match and an elaborate wing adorning each shin. Sheer schoolgirl knee-highs also made an appearance.
Sui incorporated colors like olive, navy, magenta, and electric blue with several staple black-and-white and cream pieces to round out the collection. Of particular prettiness was one of the last looks, a delicate cream woodcut rose pattern velvet and striped mesh babydoll dress — though on the shorter side, expect dresses and skirts of all lengths courtesy of Sui come fall.
Some models donned both real and faux fur coats, stoles, and capes, while others wore whimsical cat hats with whiskers. Still others sported dangling resin chain necklaces and low slung belts, lending a tasteful ’70s boho-chic style.
Perhaps Sui’s biggest misstep were her indigo denim numbers and a particular pair of black cross-hatch rubber print shorts.
Notable attendees at the Sui show included Sofia Coppola, Fergie, Vanessa Hudgens, Karen Elson and The Veronicas.
Photo Credit: Cindy Ord