Gareth Pugh & Nick Knight Debut Bizarre Spring 18 Fashion Film

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Fashion films are the new runway show. A week after Kenzo and Natasha Lyonne wowed us with a bizarre clown-centric film about Maya Rudolph discovering her soul and pushing us towards an existential crisis, avant-garde maestro Gareth Pugh has unleashed a 16-minute art film to show off his new collection.

Indeed, for spring 18 Pugh teamed with venerable photographer Nick Knight for a film that debuted at London’s BFI IMAX, which is reportedly the biggest movie screen in Europe. He also employed choreographer Wayne McGregor, as well as performance artist Olivier de Sagazan. In the beginning of the piece, Sagazan and Pugh smear clay over each other’s faces and bodies until they’re completely covered, like some high fashion ritual spa day.

It’s not until two-thirds of the way into the film that the clothes are unveiled, beginning with a gag-worthy red-haired model in a metallic red trench coat. Eventually, more models enter the red-and-black mirrored room until, suddenly, holy music begins to blare and it shifts to gold and white light. We won’t spoil the finale but, between this and the Kenzo film, we’re definitely ready for absurdist, artistic fashion shorts to become the new normal.

 

Our 11 Favorite Looks From Gucci’s Legendary Spring 18 Show

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Illustration by Hilton Dresden. Photos Courtesy of Gucci.

 

Alessandro Michele’s Spring 18 show featured some of the best looks we’ve seen on a runway period, let alone this season. The collection took his signature power-clashing of textiles, colors and patterns to new heights: floral quilted skirts combined with angular jackets and glittering jewelry, silky bodysuits met furs and Bugs Bunny cardigans, fanny packs met rhinestones and flare pants…it seems every concept that could be thought of for the hundred plus looks of the collection was implemented. And the results were breathtaking.

The collection draws inspiration from several nostalgic fashion moments: the 80s and 90s are both clearly visible in silhouette and accessories, while the haircuts tended to trend towards even earlier decades. Yet it still felt decidedly ahead of its time, a refreshingly daring and conceptual show blasting apart a season filled with so many safe runways.

While it would be impossible to choose the definitive favorite looks from the show (which, by the way, incorporated low lighting and immense amounts of fog), we’ve compiled the 11 which dazzled us the most.

 

Gucci’s Cruise 18 Campaign Shot Real Rome Residents in Their Homes

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Photography: Mick Rock for Gucci Cruise 18.

 

For Gucci’s Cruise 18 campaign, they tapped legendary photographer Mick Rock – nicknamed “The Man Who Shot the Seventies” because of his iconic photographs of Blondie, Bowie and Queen – to capture their new collection on camera.

Rock elected to skip fashion models in favor of real citizens of the city of Rome, photographing individuals who caught his eye in their own homes or on the street to fantastic effect.

“What helped a lot is the fact that I got constant stimulation from the clothes because they’re so fabulous, and they’re colourful,” he told Dazed. “I just went for the people that interested me.”

Gucci’s next release of new styles will arrive in just 6 days, when the combined men’s and women’s Spring 18 line is unveiled at Milan Fashion Week September 20.

 

 

New York Fashion Week Just Had Its Most Diverse Season Ever

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As we trekked through the city for the chaos of New York Fashion Week, we couldn’t help but notice that the face of the runway seemed to finally be changing. Now, it’s been confirmed. The Fashion Spot’s diversity report for the Spring 2018 season has been released and its findings are worth celebrating.

After surveying 94 shows and 2,601 model appearances, they found that 36.9 percent of runway models were people of color – which is a great increase from the 31.5 percent during the Fall 2017 season and an astronomical change from a year ago, when only 20.9 percent of models were people of color. This season also marks the very first time that every single runway show had at least two models of color. While this is certainly nowhere near enough, it’s a noble step in the right direction.

Besides racial diversity, the season also had a record 31 transgender or non-binary models walk the runway, including Teddy Quinlivan, who came out as transgender at the end of Fashion Week. There were also a record 90 plus-size models, compared to the 26 who walked for Fall 2017 earlier this year.

This push towards a more diverse and inclusive runway is a breath of fresh air and, as usual, it’s smaller, queer designers like Eckhaus Latta and Luar who seem to be leading the charge. But for all of the diversity we’ve seen here, inclusivity on the runway doesn’t seem to be a big import across the pond this season, when it comes to some of our favorite designers like Palomo Spain and Gucci, whose runways featured only a handful of dark-skinned, non-white models each.

While any step forward is reason to celebrate, the fashion industry’s path toward diversity still has a long way to go until it’s as diverse as the world we live in.

Maya Rudolph, Fred Armisen Star in Kenzo Fashion Film

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If you’re looking for clown content that’s a little less It and American Horror Story: Cult and a little more existentially distressing, you may want to take 13 minutes to watch Kenzo’s new fashion film. Cabiria, Charity, Chastity is the directorial debut of Orange is the New Black actress Natasha Lyonne, and to say that it’s bizarre would be a massive, egregious understatement.

Kenzo is already known for creating top quality, surrealist films for its collections – their last, directed by Spike Jonze, won a Grand Prix at Cannes this year – and this clown-centric piece doesn’t disappoint. Lyonne wrangled up a star-studded cast that includes Maya Rudolph, Fred Armisen, Macaulay Culkin, Leslie Odom Jr., and Greta Lee. Oh, and she got almost all of them simply by texting them – because Lyonne is just that good.

In the film, Rudolph plays Chastity, who winds up on a time-traveling journey of self-discovery that includes clown school (as taught by Armisen), a cabaret, a terrifying Macaulay Culkin, and a gibberish language that the director made up for the film. We’d try to explain the story, but after two run-throughs, we still have literally no idea what any of it means.

While we anxiously await Kenzo’s SS18 show on September 27, to see how the film ties in, take a break and watch it in all its weird glory.

 

Check Out the St. John’s Prep School-Turned-Punk Menswear Collection

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Image courtesy of St. John

Preston Douglas’ St. Johns collection has brought a Parisian influence to deconstructed menswear. Red berets and cheeky sunglasses were paired with overlong sleeves and boxy silhouettes for a fresh, casual look. The palette is a clean, simple array of khakis, blue, whites, grays, and reds.

The designer has created something simultaneously sweet, simple, and decidedly fashion forward with his flowy, minimalist new range of garments. Get a behind-the-scenes insight into the show from the video below.

 

 

 

Photo courtesy of Saint Johns.

Backstage at Palomo Spain’s Extravagant Spring 18 Show

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Photography: Anabel Navarro for Palomo Spain

 

Palomo Spain presented their Spring 18 collection at the Hotel Wellington in Madrid – a fitting setting, considering the queer menswear brand’s fifth collection took inspiration from the colorful cast of characters designer Alejandro Gómez Palomo has encountered during the past year of traveling the world, presenting his clothing everywhere from New York to Paris.

The collection begins with outfits reminiscent of bellboys and maids, and as the show progressed, so did its story of a day in the life of a luxury hotel – transitioning into garb inspired by Middle Eastern princesses and heirs to massive fortunes heading out for a night on the town. Beautiful silks, organzas, sequins and feathers starkly contrast with the use of everyday textiles like cotton and bathrobe-y towel material.

It also marks Palomo’s first venture into creating bags – for Spring 18, he’s designed large, chic travel bags in colorful leather hues. The brand also continues their partnership with Converse, pairing laid-back sneakers with over the top luxury ensembles harmoniously.

Take a look at some of our favorite backstage moments from the show.

 

 

Vaquera’s Spring 18 Show Pokes Fun at Stuffy Fashion & American Youth

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Illustration: Hilton Dresden. Photos Courtesy of Dan and Corina Lecca.

 

Designers Patric DiCaprio, Bryn Taubensee, David Moses, and Claire Sully, more succinctly known as Vaquera, have again poked fun at stuffy fashion shows and pretentious ideas of class with their Spring 18 collection.

The show was presented in a boxing gym in lower Manhattan—models stomped down a runway that twisted around a roped stage reserved for competitions of physical strength and endurance. Upon each seat a poem was written:

“I’m trying to think, About who I am, and what I want!!!!!!” it begins. “But instead I’m stuck on when I didn’t think about much at all. When my main dilemma was whether my outfit would read as surf when all I wanted was to be punk!!!!!!!”

As always, the collection appeared to tackle the concept of identity expressed through fashion—in seasons past, we’ve seen elegant chefs, women swarthed in gauzy umbrellas, working class attire and over-the-top Americana. This season seems to take a more youthful approach, calling back to middle school couture with its Abercrombie-reminiscent ‘Vaquera’ logos emblazoned upon cropped tank tops and fringed tees. Board shorts, tropical florals, and license plate-themed textiles reigned supreme, further reinforcing the notion of eight grade mall kids-gone-high fashion.

 

 

The show still felt, as Vaquera always does, very American, or, at least, poking fun at clothing that would, in another context, signify extreme patriotism. There was a giant t-shirt with Abe Lincoln on it, accompanied by a large cowboy hat. The characters created in this show seem more innocent than those of runways past, with their ripped tees and wide cut trousers.

Moments that truly astounded us included the final look, a giant gown made out of bathrobe material, as well as a floral dress with a giant bow tied on its front. We were also partial to the phase of the collection using a yellow checkered fabric, which featured a ruffle-sleeved, high-low shirt fitted ingeniously upon its model. They also struck gold with a pinstripe trouser paired with a skintight floral turtleneck. Take a look at some of our favorites below.

 

Solange Turns East River Track Into Stage During NYFW

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We’ve never been more jealous of not being on a fitness track in our lives. Alright, so we’ve never been jealous of not being on a fitness track but, on Tuesday, that moment happened because of Solange Knowles. The ethereal—and newly blonde—singer stopped by the East River Track to provide live vocals for Maryam Nassir Zadeh’s spring ’18 runway show.

As joggers ran past Solange while she performed “Rise” alongside her seven-person band, a stream of models in neon-green jackets, sheer pink dresses, and metallic trousers walked the track. It was a relaxing, surreal moment in what has become an increasingly hectic New York Fashion Week, which is exactly what Zadeh had wanted.

“We will be doing a bit of a guerrilla show starting promptly at 3 p.m. (If you are late you will miss the show),” Zadeh’s invitation read ahead of the show. The experiment she’d dreamt up clearly worked because, for one day only, a nondescript track on the East River became the stage for Solange’s most intimate show yet. Watch the performance, below: