Paris Fashion Week: What Happened to Saint Laurent Menswear?

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Pictured: YSL Spring ’17, Illustrated by Hilton Dresden

Later today, Anthony Vaccarello will present his Women’s Ready-To-Wear collection in Paris. According to T Magazine, the newly appointed designer will present his first set of men’s looks—apart from a single model in sheer blouse and trousers shown at his debut in September. Following Hedi Slimane’s departure in April, the slot usually reserved for Saint Laurent menswear has remained vacant for two seasons. A curious choice, given that menswear was one of the fastest growing sectors in the business.

Although Kering does not release a break down by gender, under Slimane the brand saw double-digit growth for consecutive quarters. With the men in leather jackets and jhodpur boots flooding the streets, and the recent boost in men’s sales across the luxury spectrum, it’s clear that the male market cannot be ignored.

Unlike Slimane, who has had a devout men’s following since his days at Dior Homme, Vaccarello has limited experience in menswear—his eponymous line was exclusively women’s. While he did dabble with men’s designs while at Versus Versace, he is primarily interested in womenswear. According to multiple sources, even with the brief display of menswear set to be unveiled later today, Vaccarello is relatively uninvolved in the men’s side of the business at Saint Laurent.

Indeed, the two seasons since his appointment have been stocked with staid Slimane era re-issues. With a rabid male fan base and a burgeoning men’s designer market, will Saint Laurent let the men’s line fall behind? Or, rather, like some have suggested, bring in a dedicated men’s designer to reinvigorate the slick rocker chic look Slimane ushered in? Only time will tell. However, today’s presentation will be a strong indicator of what is to come.

The Men of ‘Moonlight’ Star in New Calvin Klein Underwear Campaign

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Lead Photo: @CalvinKlein via Instagram

Fresh off their historic, surprise Best Picture win last night, the men of Moonlight have started off their new lives as Oscar darlings by stripping down to their skivvies for Raf Simons’ new underwear campaign for Calvin Klein. Even if they hadn’t taken home film’s biggest award, after seeing these photos, we would have decidedly declared this week belonging to them. Trevante Rhodes, Alex Hibbert, Ashton Sanders, and Best Supporting Actor winner Mahershala Ali look fabulous in the new images, shot by Willy Vanderperre. Take a look below:

Designer – Illustrator Collaborations That Blew Us Away

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When two of the best worlds collide, art and fashion, something spectacular is bound to happen. We spend all day with our faces glued to screens; hence things that are hand-done have a special appeal. Perhaps this is why fashion has turned more and more to collaborating with outre artistic talent. Here we take a look at present and past collaborations that stunned.

 

Gucci – Jayde Fish

Illustrator Jayde Fish is perhaps the hottest illustrator of the moment, thanks to her collaboration with Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s creative director. Michele discovered Fish through Instagram, and for his Spring 2017 show he created an eccentric collection by transforming Fish’s elaborate illustrations into beaded embroidery and prints. Just like Michele, Fish’s aesthetic is fun and quirky with a bit of vintage flavor – thus it was no wonder that the collection turned out to be a big hit.

✨Blouse, skirt & scarf #gucciss17 ✨

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Krizia Robustella – Marcos Cabrera

Marcos Cabrera is a very hot Barcelona based illustrator and graphic designer. Most of his work is commission based, but his penchant for strange things like zombies and monsters caught the eye of iconoclastic streetwear designer Krizia Robustella, who debuted his illustrations for her Fall 2017 collection during Barcelona Fashion Week.

 

#jollydeathcrew fw 2017-18 #kriziarobustella prints by @marcos_cabrera sneakers @reebokclassices @080bcnfashion

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Krizia Robustella – Nicasio Torres Melgar

Another great talent to collaborate with Krizia Robustella is Nicasio Torres Melgar. For her 2016 collection dubbed ‘Black Street’, an homage to the streets of New York, Torres created graffiti prints of animated faces from the past.

 

#blackstreet fw 2016-17 @080bcnfashion #kriziarobustella print @nicasio_torres photo @lenasonrie www.kriziarobustella.tictail.com

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STORY – Donald Robertson

Donald Robertson was a suburban dad with a nine-to-five job and an art school failure before his assistant helped propel him to fame through social media. Now he’s a fashion favorite, having collaborated with the likes of J. Crew, Canada Goose and STORY (to name a few). His cartoonlike depictions of everything and everyone have also won him big celebrity fans: Beyoncé uploaded a photo of a custom-made Robertson handbag.

 

@thisisstory my blank canvas tees! @jfclothingco ! @alysstyler muse

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Comme des Garcons – Joseph Ari Aloi

Joseph Ari Aloi is a fascinating New York-based multi-media artist and tattooer. His abstract and tribal influenced aesthetic caught the attention of Rei Kawakubo for her Comme des Garcons 2015 menswear line. Aloi adorned Kawakubo’s pieces with collages of abstracted script phrases like “Born to Die”, giving the illusion of a fully tatted body.

 

 

Rumor: Husband & Wife Duo Take Over Jil Sander

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Illustration by Hilton Dresden

The fashion Ferris wheel is back in motion. This time around, German house Jil Sander is gearing up for a new turn. With creative director Rodolfo Paglialunga supposedly set to hop off following his latest Womenswear collection, Jil Sander has reportedly tapped not one, but two designers to steer in his stead. Husband and wife Luke and Lucie Meier have apparently been appointed as joint creative directors of the label, and will design both men’s and women’s collections in tandem.

Following seasons of critically mixed reviews and faltering commercial success, it seems due time for the brand to shake things up. With Paglialunga out, however, the brand just might be poised for a serious comeback. The married team has impressive resumes, covering everything from streetwear to couture. Mr. Meier, once creative director of Supreme, currently designs the highly technical and much lauded menswear line OAMC (formerly Over All Master Cloth). Mrs. Meier most recently oversaw Ready-to-Wear and Couture at Dior underneath Creative Direction of Raf Simons—a Jil Sander alumnus himself. Following his departure, she and design partner Serge Ruffieux took center stage and lead the Dior design team. After Maria Grazia Chiuri was named creative director last summer, Mrs. Meier and Ruffieux—now creative director at Carven—departed.

If appointed, this couple could very well elevate the brand to levels not seen since Simons was the helm in the mid 2000’s. The collaborative efforts of two designers who together understand clothing on all levels, from street to Atelier, could be something quite special. Stay tuned for any developments.

Steal This Look: Fashion’s Otherworldly It Girl

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Illustration by Hilton Dresden

Sometimes you’ll see the outfit of your dreams – that ensemble that you know will catapault you into extraterrestrial territory. But how to actually achieve it?In this edition of Steal This Look, we’ll explain exactly where to buy the style of the solar system:

Belted Patent-Leather Trench Coat with Ruffle Trim (Lanvin) // Tulle Top with Frilled Neck (ShopFloorWhore) // Turqoise Pleated Tulle Trousers (ShopFloorWhore) // Lili Strappy Platform Pumps (Marc Jacobs)

NYFW Wrap: Fashion Got Political

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New York Fashion Week is a wrap – and, motivated by divisive Trump policies, political statements were a major trend. From newcomers to the well-established designers, the shows provided a platform for designers to express their opinions on hot-button topics such as women’s rights and the immigration ban.

Slogans on shirts were all the rage! Christian Siriano strutted his models in T-shirts reading People are People, while Jade Lai of Creatures of Comfort’s message was We are all Human Beings. But it was Prabal Gurung who made the most noise,  declaring The Future is Female, I am an Immigrant, Revolution has no Borders, and Stronger than Fear.

Other designers, such as Michael Kors and The Row, opted for more subliminal messages; the former sent out models in oversized sweaters with the word Love across the chest, while one of the latter’s looks was a white shirt with the word Hope sewn at the cuff.

 

 

Statement-making accessories also proved quite popular. Rio Uribe of Gypsy Sport opened his show with a speech about the plight of refugees living on the streets. Soon after, models came out sporting hats that read Make America New York, We Need Leaders and This Land is Your Land. Meanwhile, things at LRS Studio got cheeky, literally. Models walked out wearing undies that read Fuck Your Wall and No Ban No Wall.

Amongst all this antagonistic spirit, Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein reminded us to unite as one. Hilfiger started the ‘white bandana’ movement at his LA show by having models tie them on their wrists, a message in support of humankind. Calvin Klein extended the uniting spirit by handing them out to his attendees before his NYFW show.

 

New York fashion week #LRSstudio#fuckyourwall

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Nordstrom + Olivia Kim Launch ‘The Lab’

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Though the official line was that Nordstrom dropped Ivanka Trump simply because the clothes weren’t selling – the retailer has been elevated to the role of “hero” by those forming the opposition to our new President’s early core policy decisions. So there is a particular satisfaction in helping them to support young, up-and-coming talent.

And indeed, this week Nordstrom launched ‘The Lab,’ which will showcase the next generation of designers, featuring selected items from carefully chosen fashion unknowns. A project of SPACE, a boutique-within-a-store overseen by VP of Creative Projects Olivia Kim, the program’s inaugural five are NYC’s Eckhaus Latta (pictured above), young Canadian Vejas (Kruszewski), Turkish-but-London-based Dilara Findikoglu (we love her provocative rocker chic), Natalia Alaverdian’s A.W.A.K.E., and punky Eric Schlösberg.

“We wanted to find a way to show the truly new brands just starting out,” enthuses Kim, “and to recognize the great, raw talent out there. The Lab is for the designers who have just launched their collections, did their first show, maybe used their friends as models and showed in a basketball court in the Lower East Side. It’s true, authentic and they’re creating beautiful collections that we want to share with our customers.”

‘The Lab’ will be available at select Nordstrom locations: LA, Chicago, Vancouver, Toronto, flagship Seattle and Nordstrom.com/SPACELab. It will be refreshed with each new season.

 

  • Vejas
  • Dilara Findikoglu
  • A.W.A.K.E.
  • Eric Schlösberg

Public School NY Unveils Latest Collab With Air Jordans

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New York based designers Public School are back with another Jordan collaboration. Amidst the excitement of NBA All-Star weekend, Maxwell Osbourne and Dao-Yi Chao released images of a new take on the Air Jordan 12. Following their all-black rendition last season, they are releasing a new “Wheat” colorway. Wrapped in a tonal sand motif, the sneaker is an obvious reference to the classic Timberland 6” Boot—a New York staple if there ever was one. The city-centric duo has once again merged street and luxury as only they know how.

Slated to drop alongside their Fall/Winter 2017 offering, which included graphic hoodies emblazoned with his Airness’ face, the brand continues to build their ongoing relationship with Jordan brand, reiterating Jordan’s influence on street culture. With a release slated for this summer, be sure to keep a look out for these, as they are guaranteed to go fast.

NYFW Trend Roundup: From Americana to Old-School Glam

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Fashion matured this season. Designers revolted against a market that seemed over-saturated with teen nostalgia and opulent embellishments. Gone were the brand logos, street-wear craze, and rockstar accessories. In lieu, sophisticated glamour, sleek suits, and Americana spirit took center stage.

Here we round up what the biggest trends were from this season. Considering many designers jumped in on the ‘see it now, buy it now’ phenomenon, many collection pieces are already sold out. Best to start getting that wardrobe ready now!

Americana

Stuart Vevers catapulted Coach to new levels with the revival of the Americana spirit – and that tribute to heritage proved to be contagious for many designers this season. A modern rendition of the cowboy look included leather vests, embroidered denim, and boiler suits. The barren land of the plains also made a significant impact with the incorporation of paisley prints, earthy color tones, and shearling fur.

Thank you to our RTW workshop ⚡️🙌⚡️🙌⚡️#CoachFall2017 #NYFW

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Old-School Glamour (velvet as formal wear, renaissance brocades, fur)

Decadence is here to stay. Velvet, fur, and rich fabrics continued to be staples. Lurex knits and ornate brocades were also thrown into the mix. The modern Renaissance woman continues to charm!

#silkvelvet #ullajohnson #bts #aw17 ✨🍁🥀

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Suit Up

The suit was galore this season, from oversized to tailored. Thom Browne even opted to base his entire collection around the traditional button-up suit. A sleek color palette along with classical fabrics made for a mature and dark vibe.