Steal This Look: Fashion’s Otherworldly It Girl

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Illustration by Hilton Dresden

Sometimes you’ll see the outfit of your dreams – that ensemble that you know will catapault you into extraterrestrial territory. But how to actually achieve it?In this edition of Steal This Look, we’ll explain exactly where to buy the style of the solar system:

Belted Patent-Leather Trench Coat with Ruffle Trim (Lanvin) // Tulle Top with Frilled Neck (ShopFloorWhore) // Turqoise Pleated Tulle Trousers (ShopFloorWhore) // Lili Strappy Platform Pumps (Marc Jacobs)

Nordstrom + Olivia Kim Launch ‘The Lab’

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Though the official line was that Nordstrom dropped Ivanka Trump simply because the clothes weren’t selling – the retailer has been elevated to the role of “hero” by those forming the opposition to our new President’s early core policy decisions. So there is a particular satisfaction in helping them to support young, up-and-coming talent.

And indeed, this week Nordstrom launched ‘The Lab,’ which will showcase the next generation of designers, featuring selected items from carefully chosen fashion unknowns. A project of SPACE, a boutique-within-a-store overseen by VP of Creative Projects Olivia Kim, the program’s inaugural five are NYC’s Eckhaus Latta (pictured above), young Canadian Vejas (Kruszewski), Turkish-but-London-based Dilara Findikoglu (we love her provocative rocker chic), Natalia Alaverdian’s A.W.A.K.E., and punky Eric Schlösberg.

“We wanted to find a way to show the truly new brands just starting out,” enthuses Kim, “and to recognize the great, raw talent out there. The Lab is for the designers who have just launched their collections, did their first show, maybe used their friends as models and showed in a basketball court in the Lower East Side. It’s true, authentic and they’re creating beautiful collections that we want to share with our customers.”

‘The Lab’ will be available at select Nordstrom locations: LA, Chicago, Vancouver, Toronto, flagship Seattle and Nordstrom.com/SPACELab. It will be refreshed with each new season.

 

  • Vejas
  • Dilara Findikoglu
  • A.W.A.K.E.
  • Eric Schlösberg

Public School NY Unveils Latest Collab With Air Jordans

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New York based designers Public School are back with another Jordan collaboration. Amidst the excitement of NBA All-Star weekend, Maxwell Osbourne and Dao-Yi Chao released images of a new take on the Air Jordan 12. Following their all-black rendition last season, they are releasing a new “Wheat” colorway. Wrapped in a tonal sand motif, the sneaker is an obvious reference to the classic Timberland 6” Boot—a New York staple if there ever was one. The city-centric duo has once again merged street and luxury as only they know how.

Slated to drop alongside their Fall/Winter 2017 offering, which included graphic hoodies emblazoned with his Airness’ face, the brand continues to build their ongoing relationship with Jordan brand, reiterating Jordan’s influence on street culture. With a release slated for this summer, be sure to keep a look out for these, as they are guaranteed to go fast.

NYFW Wrap: Fashion Got Political

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New York Fashion Week is a wrap – and, motivated by divisive Trump policies, political statements were a major trend. From newcomers to the well-established designers, the shows provided a platform for designers to express their opinions on hot-button topics such as women’s rights and the immigration ban.

Slogans on shirts were all the rage! Christian Siriano strutted his models in T-shirts reading People are People, while Jade Lai of Creatures of Comfort’s message was We are all Human Beings. But it was Prabal Gurung who made the most noise,  declaring The Future is Female, I am an Immigrant, Revolution has no Borders, and Stronger than Fear.

Other designers, such as Michael Kors and The Row, opted for more subliminal messages; the former sent out models in oversized sweaters with the word Love across the chest, while one of the latter’s looks was a white shirt with the word Hope sewn at the cuff.

 

 

Statement-making accessories also proved quite popular. Rio Uribe of Gypsy Sport opened his show with a speech about the plight of refugees living on the streets. Soon after, models came out sporting hats that read Make America New York, We Need Leaders and This Land is Your Land. Meanwhile, things at LRS Studio got cheeky, literally. Models walked out wearing undies that read Fuck Your Wall and No Ban No Wall.

Amongst all this antagonistic spirit, Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein reminded us to unite as one. Hilfiger started the ‘white bandana’ movement at his LA show by having models tie them on their wrists, a message in support of humankind. Calvin Klein extended the uniting spirit by handing them out to his attendees before his NYFW show.

 

New York fashion week #LRSstudio#fuckyourwall

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NYFW Trend Roundup: From Americana to Old-School Glam

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Fashion matured this season. Designers revolted against a market that seemed over-saturated with teen nostalgia and opulent embellishments. Gone were the brand logos, street-wear craze, and rockstar accessories. In lieu, sophisticated glamour, sleek suits, and Americana spirit took center stage.

Here we round up what the biggest trends were from this season. Considering many designers jumped in on the ‘see it now, buy it now’ phenomenon, many collection pieces are already sold out. Best to start getting that wardrobe ready now!

Americana

Stuart Vevers catapulted Coach to new levels with the revival of the Americana spirit – and that tribute to heritage proved to be contagious for many designers this season. A modern rendition of the cowboy look included leather vests, embroidered denim, and boiler suits. The barren land of the plains also made a significant impact with the incorporation of paisley prints, earthy color tones, and shearling fur.

Thank you to our RTW workshop ⚡️🙌⚡️🙌⚡️#CoachFall2017 #NYFW

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Old-School Glamour (velvet as formal wear, renaissance brocades, fur)

Decadence is here to stay. Velvet, fur, and rich fabrics continued to be staples. Lurex knits and ornate brocades were also thrown into the mix. The modern Renaissance woman continues to charm!

#silkvelvet #ullajohnson #bts #aw17 ✨🍁🥀

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Suit Up

The suit was galore this season, from oversized to tailored. Thom Browne even opted to base his entire collection around the traditional button-up suit. A sleek color palette along with classical fabrics made for a mature and dark vibe.

Vaquera’s FW 17 Show Was an Americana We Support

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Illustration by Hilton Dresden

Vaquera’s show Sunday night at NYFW was easily the strongest of the season with its cheeky subversion of classic Americana tropes, like the flag and Tiffany & Co. The collection included everything from Gaultier cone bras to 30+ foot star spangled trains and cartoonish hats rising at least a yard into the air. And yet, as absurd and irreverent as the collection absolutely was, each look felt distinctly chic, of-the-moment, and, somehow, extremely wearable. Every it-girl in the room left wondering how to get their hands on a Tiffany blue assless sack for their next red carpet appearance.

Among our favorite looks: a soon-to-be infamous gown constructed from the American flag, with a train so long we found ourselves shrieking with laughter as it snaked behind its model for foot after foot. We were also obsessed with a boxy red jacket reminiscent of Demna Gvasalia’s Spring ’17 show. A goofy tall hat evocative of the bearskins of ceremonial European military garb left us breathless and feeling naked on our heads.

“All fashion is referential, the New York-based fashion collective told OUT. “It’s absurd to pretend that you are creating something absolutely new in 2017. Instead, we embrace our references. Our work is about combining them in unexpected ways and recontextualizing tired ideas so that they seem fresh.”

On their favorite pieces from the collection, Vaquera said, “It’s exciting to make something super wearable, but I think we get the most excited about our more conceptual show pieces. The American Flag debutant dress, melting Oscar gown and chef/bride were all standouts this season.”

The show was bold in its pairing of high-class pseudo-French elegance with industrial, worksman garb. It’s assymetrical silhouettes, bizarre styling and consistent nods to a warped nation felt beautifully political and the “fuck you” to both our nation and safe fashion that we’ve been begging for. We were left awestruck, excited and hungry to begin our new style chapter of art freak-meets-Audrey Hepburn-meets-mechanic-meets-high-class escort.

“One of the only upsides to having someone in the White House that the vast majority of America distrusts is the unifying power of the resistance movement,” Vaquera said. “We are hoping to see some of the rebellious spirit of the Bush years return to pop culture. We wanted to express how disappointed we are with the current state of American politics without being completely  pessimistic. Positivity and hope are essential.”

Check out the full collection here.

Refinery Rooftop Enlists NYFWM Designers for New Uniform

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The Refinery Rooftop recently hosted the New York Men’s Day afterparty at their rooftop bar. It was a perfect venue to kick off New York Fashion Week: Men’s. The week of presentations and runway shows offered previews of fall looks from some of the most coveted talents in the industry.

Now, the boutique hotel is enlisting some help from these emerging designers. Following in the footsteps of Delta’s Zac Posen-designed uniforms, Refinery Rooftop is seeking a fresh, high-end vision for their new official look. Bristol, David Naman, R. Swiader, and Uri Minkoff have offered their unique ideas for the running.

It’s up to the public to decide whose design will be chosen. Voting is open via Facebook until March 10, and the winning uniform will debut in spring at the Refinery Rooftop. Check out the contending sketches below.

  • Bristol
  • David Naman
  • R. Swiader
  • Uri Minkoff

Maude: Sex Accessories For Modern People

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Sex sells. Maude wants to sell it better – and the brand’s three female founders, Eva Goicochea, Dina Epstein and Maya Bodinger, are intent on disrupting the sex industry. Together they’ve combined their experience in retail, strategy and product development (Epstein was head of “toy” design at kinky lux label Kiki de Montparnasse), to create a line of products that puts the sexy back in sex (to)y. The goodies? Sleekly designed condoms, lubes and vibrators, simplified, sustainable and of particularly high quality – but still very much about getting it on.

They also put a feminist spin on an often gender-biased industry – which they inform us dates back to avery unsexy bit of history-as-inspiration. Little did we know that condoms were readily available and distributed (to male soldiers) in the mid-1800s – and then along came Anthony Comstock, a fervently religious military man, who lobbied for the making the sale of anything deemed “obscene” illegal, including condoms. Thus was born the Comstock Act of 1873.

Condoms

It wasn’t until the 1930s that the issue caught the attention of the FDA, which went on to create universal standards. Until this time condoms were sold in unmarked packaging so as not to attract attention. A popular supplier, Three Merry Widows, named their ‘rubbers’ Mabel, Agnes and Beckie. ‘Maude’ in name and design is a nod to the widows, the subversively beautiful packaging of that time, while “fighting the stigma of sex—much like they did almost 150 years ago,” says Goicochea. “While Maude is a female name, the spirit of Maude stands for all.”

As the big brands rushed in, companies like Trojan did loads of advertising to not only gain legitimacy, as Goicochea notes, but to get doctors on their side. She sneers, “And so began the era of Trojan: Overtly sexual condoms that defined sex through a hypermasculine lens.” Outdated…and terribly boring.

Maude is just the opposite, representing “interesting, diverse and real voices.” It’s pro-sex and progressive – or as Goicochea puts it: “Sex is great. Do it. We support the quickie. But wear a condom please.”

Maudern sex debuted February 14.

 

Raf Touches Down in New York

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Illustration by Hilton Dresden

Six months ago, Calvin Klein announced industry veteran Raf Simons would take over as Chief Creative Officer. Following his abrupt departure from Dior in Fall 2015, Simons would receive full control over clothing, fragrance and advertisement. Relatively quiet since his appointment, Simons has dominated headlines as of late, with a redesigned CK logo and an inspired campaign focusing on American Pop and Modern art. On Friday, though, Simons finally unveiled his first collection for the house.

Inviting press and celebrity clients to the Calvin Klein New York City headquarters in midtown, guests sat beneath a new permanent ceiling installation courtesy of friend and longtime collaborator Sterling Ruby. With a soundtrack consisting of David Bowie’s “This Is Not America” and Virgin Suicides soundbites, Simons showed his expansive take on modern America. Filled with clever anecdotes, including quilted blankets as technical jacket liners, and nylon layered over fur reminiscent of plastic couch covers, the designer presented a European view on Americana in its truest sense. Bold color combinations and minimal designs irking back to his Jil Sander days were just the refresh needed to jolt the poorly performing Calvin Klein Collection line back to life. With full creative control and an inspired first outing, we can’t wait to see what Raf will do next.