Free People Threw a Party in Their Pants

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BFA / Noel McGrath

Last week, Free People, the bohemian retailer with a penchant for lively

prints, invited friends and family to put on their favorite pair of pants, and, well, just

dance. The event, which celebrated the release of a new line of bottoms, was held on

the recently opened twelfth floor of Neuehouse, a member’s only club for creatives

in Manhattan’s Flatiron district. With custom cocktails courtesy of Tito’s Vodka and

Pressed Juicery, and a DJ-set by Harley Viera-Newton, attendees danced the night

way. The room, dimly lit, with strobing ultraviolet lights, made for quite the

atmosphere. So much so that even those of with two left feet couldn’t help but get

our groove on. Between the electric outfits—you could have sworn Coachella was in

full swing—and sweeping 360-degree views, it was hard to not feel the buzz,

cocktails be damned.

Apart from the dancing, the highlight of the evening was an unexpected

double-dutch session. The jump ropes, adorned in glow sticks, quickly became the

center of attention, and the jumpers did not disappoint. By the end of the night, after

hours of dancing and an unmentionable number of juice-infused vodkas, attendees

strode out with smiles on their faces. Free People indeed.

Paris Fashion Week: What Happened to Saint Laurent Menswear?

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Pictured: YSL Spring ’17, Illustrated by Hilton Dresden

Later today, Anthony Vaccarello will present his Women’s Ready-To-Wear collection in Paris. According to T Magazine, the newly appointed designer will present his first set of men’s looks—apart from a single model in sheer blouse and trousers shown at his debut in September. Following Hedi Slimane’s departure in April, the slot usually reserved for Saint Laurent menswear has remained vacant for two seasons. A curious choice, given that menswear was one of the fastest growing sectors in the business.

Although Kering does not release a break down by gender, under Slimane the brand saw double-digit growth for consecutive quarters. With the men in leather jackets and jhodpur boots flooding the streets, and the recent boost in men’s sales across the luxury spectrum, it’s clear that the male market cannot be ignored.

Unlike Slimane, who has had a devout men’s following since his days at Dior Homme, Vaccarello has limited experience in menswear—his eponymous line was exclusively women’s. While he did dabble with men’s designs while at Versus Versace, he is primarily interested in womenswear. According to multiple sources, even with the brief display of menswear set to be unveiled later today, Vaccarello is relatively uninvolved in the men’s side of the business at Saint Laurent.

Indeed, the two seasons since his appointment have been stocked with staid Slimane era re-issues. With a rabid male fan base and a burgeoning men’s designer market, will Saint Laurent let the men’s line fall behind? Or, rather, like some have suggested, bring in a dedicated men’s designer to reinvigorate the slick rocker chic look Slimane ushered in? Only time will tell. However, today’s presentation will be a strong indicator of what is to come.

Rumor: Husband & Wife Duo Take Over Jil Sander

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Illustration by Hilton Dresden

The fashion Ferris wheel is back in motion. This time around, German house Jil Sander is gearing up for a new turn. With creative director Rodolfo Paglialunga supposedly set to hop off following his latest Womenswear collection, Jil Sander has reportedly tapped not one, but two designers to steer in his stead. Husband and wife Luke and Lucie Meier have apparently been appointed as joint creative directors of the label, and will design both men’s and women’s collections in tandem.

Following seasons of critically mixed reviews and faltering commercial success, it seems due time for the brand to shake things up. With Paglialunga out, however, the brand just might be poised for a serious comeback. The married team has impressive resumes, covering everything from streetwear to couture. Mr. Meier, once creative director of Supreme, currently designs the highly technical and much lauded menswear line OAMC (formerly Over All Master Cloth). Mrs. Meier most recently oversaw Ready-to-Wear and Couture at Dior underneath Creative Direction of Raf Simons—a Jil Sander alumnus himself. Following his departure, she and design partner Serge Ruffieux took center stage and lead the Dior design team. After Maria Grazia Chiuri was named creative director last summer, Mrs. Meier and Ruffieux—now creative director at Carven—departed.

If appointed, this couple could very well elevate the brand to levels not seen since Simons was the helm in the mid 2000’s. The collaborative efforts of two designers who together understand clothing on all levels, from street to Atelier, could be something quite special. Stay tuned for any developments.

Public School NY Unveils Latest Collab With Air Jordans

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New York based designers Public School are back with another Jordan collaboration. Amidst the excitement of NBA All-Star weekend, Maxwell Osbourne and Dao-Yi Chao released images of a new take on the Air Jordan 12. Following their all-black rendition last season, they are releasing a new “Wheat” colorway. Wrapped in a tonal sand motif, the sneaker is an obvious reference to the classic Timberland 6” Boot—a New York staple if there ever was one. The city-centric duo has once again merged street and luxury as only they know how.

Slated to drop alongside their Fall/Winter 2017 offering, which included graphic hoodies emblazoned with his Airness’ face, the brand continues to build their ongoing relationship with Jordan brand, reiterating Jordan’s influence on street culture. With a release slated for this summer, be sure to keep a look out for these, as they are guaranteed to go fast.

Luka Sabbat and Noah Dillon Present Their Provocative Photo Collab, ‘Hot Mess’

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Photos Courtesy Noah Dillon

After posing for what must have been the thousandth photo in twenty minutes, Luka Sabbat looked restless. You could feel his frantic energy filling the lobby of Milk Studios Sunday afternoon, as he moved between a clothing rack, video installation, and navigating endless handshakes. He was presenting his first exhibition, Hot Mess, a collaborative effort with photographer Noah Dillon more than two years in the making. After years on the fashion scene, the 19 year-old model, influencer, and certified cool teen presented his first non-fashion related project—a series of photos documenting youth in LA, New York, Paris, and, somewhat randomly, Durango, Colorado.

Durango is Dillon’s hometown, where he lived up until 2015, when Sabbat discovered his work through Twitter. A couple of direct messages later and Dillon was on a flight to Los Angeles, where the two connected and began what eventually became Hot Mess. The series of photos, shot by Dillon and styled by Luka, explore aspects of global youth, using models so obscure that the duo professed they can no longer find them on social media.

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Alongside the photos were a number of poems by writer Curtis Eggleston, a childhood friend of Dillon’s. While studying in Sao Paulo, Dillon sent Eggleston the completed photos, and Eggleston crafted poems in response. The final product depicts the millennial generation honestly and brutally—girls with acid green hair in woozy states of bliss, blurry shots of “Jesus Saves” neon signs, and endless cigarettes.  Apart from the photos, all for sale, was a small clothing rack. The “merch,” as Sabbat reffered to it, included patched denim and tees emblazoned with “HOT MESS,” as well as some Vetements-esque sweats that were for sale “by appointment only.”

Sabbat and Dillon said they hoped to transition Hot Mess into a creative agency similar to DONDA, Kanye West’s creative imprint. If the exuberant crowd was any indication, they have a fair chance.

Raf Touches Down in New York

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Illustration by Hilton Dresden

Six months ago, Calvin Klein announced industry veteran Raf Simons would take over as Chief Creative Officer. Following his abrupt departure from Dior in Fall 2015, Simons would receive full control over clothing, fragrance and advertisement. Relatively quiet since his appointment, Simons has dominated headlines as of late, with a redesigned CK logo and an inspired campaign focusing on American Pop and Modern art. On Friday, though, Simons finally unveiled his first collection for the house.

Inviting press and celebrity clients to the Calvin Klein New York City headquarters in midtown, guests sat beneath a new permanent ceiling installation courtesy of friend and longtime collaborator Sterling Ruby. With a soundtrack consisting of David Bowie’s “This Is Not America” and Virgin Suicides soundbites, Simons showed his expansive take on modern America. Filled with clever anecdotes, including quilted blankets as technical jacket liners, and nylon layered over fur reminiscent of plastic couch covers, the designer presented a European view on Americana in its truest sense. Bold color combinations and minimal designs irking back to his Jil Sander days were just the refresh needed to jolt the poorly performing Calvin Klein Collection line back to life. With full creative control and an inspired first outing, we can’t wait to see what Raf will do next.

Comme Des Garcons Gets its Sneaker on at NYFW

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Coinciding with New York Fashion Week, Comme Des Garcons launched a trio of collaborative Nike sneakers at their New York City flagship in Chelsea. The three silhouettes—the Dunk, VaporMax, and Air Moc—were teased throughout various CDG presentations during the S/S 2017 show cycle, however there was no confirmed release date until last week. The launch is part of a barrage of Nike events, including a Harlem centric pop-up by streetwear brand VLONE and the unveiling of the new NikeLab space at high-end retailer Bergdorf Goodman, happening throughout the week.CDG_DUNK

As it tends to go with these collaborations, the CDG sneakers sold out day of. For those still inching to get their hands on a pair though, there is still limited availability at Dover Street Market locations. Get ‘em while you can.

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